Either one is fine (not silicone) but polyurethane is much easier to clean
up.

Jerry
jerrymontgomery.org

----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon Gilbert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats"
<[email protected]>
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 10:24 AM
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bow rail removal


> Thanks for the advice, Jerry. I'll get right on that. For re-bedding
> would you use polyurethane instead of polysulfide?
>
> Gordon
> On May 15, 2008, at 12:11 PM, jerry wrote:
>
> > You are right except that the caulking was polyurethane!  The
> > solution is to
> > get a really sharp putty knife and gradually slip it in.  Once it's
> > opened
> > up a little, gently drive in a sharp wood wedge and the stanchion will
> > gradually release.  Don't get in a hurry and work from one
> > stanchion to
> > another.
> >
> > Jerry
> > jerrymontgomery.org
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Gordon Gilbert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats"
> > <[email protected]>
> > Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 9:13 AM
> > Subject: M_Boats: Bow rail removal
> >
> >
> >> I just removed, varnished and re-bedded all the brightwork on my
> >> M-17. Now I'd like to re-bed my bow rail, since I'm seeing gaps in
> >> the bedding compound -- but I can't it off. I've removed the bolts
> >> and banged the rail with a hammer and piece of wood, but the thing
> >> seems cemented in place. I'd hate to yank out chunks of deck with the
> >> pulpit.
> >>
> >> I'm assuming that the rail was originally bedded with polysulfide
> >> caulk. Has anyone else had this trouble -- or have a good solution?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Gordon
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
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> >>
> >>
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> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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>
>
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>
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