Hi JR.,
<<<< What if the back of the poster gets exposed to some
moisture, even damp air? Wouldn't the poster then stick to the foam
backing if it was in a frame with foam backing? >>>>
This is a very good question. I will do some tests and have some
answers in a few weeks, promise!!
<<<<No danger of the starch drying out, becoming brittle
over time and starting to come off the back of the poster in small
flakes? >>>>
I would say no danger. The layer is so thin, you don't know it's
there.
<<<<since the fold lines are weakened by the wetting from
the cleaning and deacidification, then stretched and dried while
stretched to remove the wrinkles... but there is no linen glued to the
back of the poster to "hold the poster together" -- doesn't this mean
the fold lines could potentially start separating at some later date,
almost "on their own?" >>>>
Only time could tell. I don't believe this technique is as old and
tried and tested like Linen Backing.
There are pros and cons to this starch backing technique.
pros: you can clean/wash de acidify your poster and get the folds out,
small paper loss and tearing can be mended. without any backing.
Cons: we/I don't know enough of the long term effect of your poster.
This Hollytex thing started as a submerge tool. I.E.. when extremely
fragile and possible torn art work needed to be submerge for cleaning
and other water treatments, Hollytex was applied as a temporary backing
to hold the paper together, yes glue was used at some cases, very
effective. and after, naturally the poster went down on linen. I know
there are definitely weakening in the fiber and folds will be more
fragile, no question about that.
This is good for posters that are in tip top shape and not recommended
for posters in weak condition.
Best,
Dario.
JR wrote:
Dario,
Thanks. I think I get it now. The Holytex serves as a temporary
backing while the poster dries out and the wrinkles go away, then it is
removed. I'm amazed that the layer of starch paste which stays behind
on the back of the poster can't be felt and is pliable enough for the
poster to be rolled. No danger of the starch drying out, becoming
brittle over time and starting to come off the back of the poster in
small flakes? What if the back of the poster gets exposed to some
moisture, even damp air? Wouldn't the poster then stick to the foam
backing if it was in a frame with foam backing?
I'm not trying to rain on any parades, but this new technique
seems to bring up a whole bunch of new considerations. And, since the
fold lines are weakened by the wetting from the cleaning and
deacidification, then stretched and dried while stretched to remove the
wrinkles... but there is no linen glued to the back of the poster to
"hold the poster together" -- doesn't this mean the fold lines could
potentially start separating at some later date, almost "on their own?"
I am opposed to linen-backing posters that don't need it, but
I'm wondering if starch-backing isn't going to cause more problems than
it solves long term?
-- JR
-----
Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, December 23, 2005 16:19
Subject: Re: [MOPO] Wrinkle Cure? Starch Backing? Oh my!
<<<< And, another question, doesn't all this processing put
a lot of stress on the old paper fibers, resulting in a poster with far
weaker structural integrity than when you started (and no linen to
reinforce it)? >>>>
Yes, absolutely your stretching the poster out after the bath to get
the folds out. No doubt that it weakens the folds.
Dario.
Dario Casadei wrote:
Dario Casadei wrote:
You are doing fine, stop
right there!! No you don't remove the starch. It is such a thin layer
that you don't see it or feel it and your poster is roll able.
Holytex is polyester, your paste is vegetable based so it's made to
tack to paper. It will not tack to Holytex, however the starch will
give it that extra suction needed when drying up. And then simply peel
the Holytex off. It's nifty and I am doing 10 right now for a client.
But I still think Linen is a better way to go for your posters, simply
because it is a 101 % expectable conservation technique by all
standards.
And it will protect your poster far better than anything.
And for anything else there's Advil.
Cheers my friend,
Dario.
JR wrote:
This new "starch backing" concept is making my head hurt.
Can someone please explain to me... in simple terms... how
exactly how this works and permanently removes wrinkles? As I think I
understand it, you clean and de-acidify the poster in a bath, then
instead of pasting it onto linen to take out the wrinkles, you put a
layer of starch (paste) on the back of the cleaned poster while it is
still wet from the bath and then stretch it (gently, I presume...)
That way it dries without wrinkles and no backing. OK, fine. But then
what? Don't you have to remove the layer of starch from the back? If
you don't, won't the poster be stiff and break like a cracker? But if
you remove the starch (with water, right?), then how do you prevent
wrinkles from being reintroduced by the removal process? Doesn't
applying enough water to remove the starch cause the paper to wrinkle
again?
And, another question, doesn't all this processing put a
lot of stress on the old paper fibers, resulting in a poster with far
weaker structural integrity than when you started (and no linen to
reinforce it)?
-- JR
-----
Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, December 23, 2005 14:27
Subject: Re: [MOPO] Wrinkle Cure?
Hi Alfredo,
Starch backing would be a great choice if you poster only need cleaning
and you wish to leave the linen out.
As you can see you have already gotten some good suggestions what to use
Like oil of Uley and so on. So I'd like to add to that, make sure that
you get an archival cooked paste from scratch either Rice or Wheat
starch and not Shure stick 800 wall paper glue, It's sold by the gallon,
cheap, quick and easy to work with, but it tack poorly and it molds
over. It contains fungicide and other chemicals that has not been test
properly on vintage paper, so long term effects are not know. I did and
open air study, I wanted to know what all the back door fuzz was all
about. I cooked my usual paste, and made a batch of Archival Methyl
cellulose by Lineco and I bought a small bucket of Shure stick. I let
them sit in 3 independent jars for two day, no lid!! after that I
introduced a contaminate brush to each paste. after two day there were
mold growing in the Shure stick wall paper glue. I don't think the
fungicide and chemicals is there to protect your wall paper, more so to
protect the paste its self. and it's not very impressive!!
Best Regards,
Dario.
alfred zelcer wrote:
>Would like to know what the best treatment for a very
>wrinkled one-sheet is without going all the way to
>linen backing. Would an acid bath do it? Or is there a
>treatment that works the equivalent of a pressing?
>Thanks all, and a merry Holiday to all too!
>
>AlfredoZ
>
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