Right! Sorry I meant 1mS. I wanted a 2x3 muxing, but I lack I/O pins,
so I will have to stick with this one. As I said, the brightness looks
surprisingly bright.

@threeneurons
Yeah, something like the B schematic, just that I included the R2. If
I remove it, it might completely shut of my nixie, instead of leaving
it under 93 volts when "off". It might be the reason for leaking some
of the current through the other transistor, to the nixie.

I am going to play a bit with your advices, but there is one thing
that still bothers me before I continue. Can I or cannot I continue
doing these test without the anode resistor? I guess the non-instant
turning on isn't really a priority right now.

Oh, and off topic; why do I keep getting an error while trying to post
a message with a link incluced? That's why I had to chop it with
spaces like that. I noticed everyone else posting normally with links,
so am I doing something wrong?

Thanks everyone, hoping to post my positive results soon!
Imbanon

On Jan 9, 9:35 pm, fixitsan <chefin...@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Jan 9, 2:03 pm, Imbanon <imba.a...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > 1. turn on the correct nixie
> > 2. calculate and input the bits for the K155ID1 (or the 74141), this
> > takes a bit of time (instead of blanking)
> > 3. wait for 1uS
> > 4. turn the nixie off
> > 5. do it all over for the next nixie/digit
> > Imbanon
>
> Step 3 - is that a typo and you actually mean 1mS ?
> 1uS sounds about 1000 times shorter than you need to be to get into
> the ballpark. I have muxed 4 tubes with an on-time of 350uS each tube,
> but only because i was trying to make some fancy effects, under normal
> circumstances 1mS over 6 tubes = 6mS per scan = approx 166Hz (fast
> enough not to flicker)
>
> The problem which might be an issue for you is if the brightness seems
> too low. A lot of people who start building 1 x 6 muxes try also using
> 2 x 3 muxes (if you have enough uC I/O to spare) and then you find the
> brightness to be notably better than a 1x6 scheme.
>
> Chris

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