Fair enough. I did measure that I-V curve long before I started drafting the circuit as I had to figure out how long it took before ionization would start and how much dimming I could get out of these tubes. For my concept watch I used ULN2803 drivers which work perfectly fine in most cases, but not in low light situations. As I only drive them with very low energy in low light, there is usually 1 tube that won't light up for a very long time (could be a couple of seconds). For the tube that doesn't light up I need a higher voltage, which I can't get to with the ULN drivers as the current starts to flow through the tube that was already on (because of the zener clamping diode).
I didn't choose for the DMMT (Vceo is 160V btw, not 180V as stated before) dual NPN because I would have end up with more components than the single mosfets, it was also easier to implement basic circuit protection with the fets rather than NPN transistors (one of the reasons is that Vebo << Vgs max). I may not be from the nixie era but that doesn't mean I do not understand how they work. Once you know the basic characteristics of the tube, driving them becomes easy, I mean this is not rocket science, right? Michel On Mar 12, 6:27 am, threeneurons <threeneur...@yahoo.com> wrote: > Even though 300V was mentioned, I believe the actual intent was driving > nixies. Only,the original poster can say for sure. > > I'm not questioning your competence, in electronics, in general, but with > nixies specifically. I'd be a lot more diplomatic with a neophyte. Yes, you > can design your circuits in a gazillion different ways, but you contradict > yourself. Your initially stated intent was to get the smallest (physically) > circuit possible, but now you want to add complexity. Complexity that may > not add reliability. > > Let's get back to my nixie timing picture. I refer to that because, that's > data that I've never seen before. I can't find that data anywhere. I had to > run that experiment myself, and share it with the group. Before that, > people were discussing all kinds of nixie misinformation about nixie > "turn-ON". The only way to find out the truth, was to run an experiment. > This is what I want you to do. Don't believe us. I mean that sincerely. > Build test circuits first. Then only use the circuit that suits your needs > the best. > > > > > > > > On Sunday, March 11, 2012 1:07:24 AM UTC-8, Cobra007 wrote: > > > Yes, of course 180V would have been enough for my circuit, but Paul > > was after high voltage drivers (he mentioned 300V) and I wasn't sure > > if 180V would be enough in his situation. > > > > We can discuss this all day long, but it seems to be "trying to teach a > > pig > > > to sing". > > > I don't really see the need to make this remark, it is neither useful > > nor funny. It seems like you think this is the first time I solder 2 > > wires together. > > > There is 1000 ways to design a circuit and there is my way to design a > > circuit and I happen to choose my way no matter what other people > > think of it. Maybe it ends up being a bit over complicated but that is > > totally fine with me. > > > Michel -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/neonixie-l?hl=en-GB.
