Thanks Dmitry. My Russian isnt good either.
A sine wave drive isnt so easy on a dc powered device, especially at 200v. I could use an rc filter to remove a lot of the harmonics from a square wave signal and produce an approximate sine wave, I dont think these devices will use lots of current so that should be practical. I'm still not sure if these devices have a backplane or common or whatever, might have to sort that out when they arrive. On 3 May, 09:17, Дмитрий Дианов <dvdia...@gmail.com> wrote: > Hello. > As far as I remember, it`s known that such indicators "like" pure sine wave > and are recommended to be used at 400 Hz. Maybe that`s only because 400 Hz > is a standard power frequency in avionics or so... > But the most of ELI I saw were of VERY dim light. Either they`re not > mentioned as any bright in databooks, not so dim! A result of time, I think. > I`m going to see how folks here in Russia powered them and tell you, but > feel free to try - I`ve never heard about broken ELI :) > Moreover, I saw ELI with broken glass that still were (partially) > functional. > > Excuse me for my english, > Dmitry Dianov. > > 2013/5/3 dr pepper <seaking.helicopt...@gmail.com> > > > > > Yes I read the VTA article. > > > Cant find it now but there was something showed up after a quick > > google showing the pinouts, is there just a backplane and segment > > connections as per an lcd, or is there other volatges req. > > And would I need to have any dc bias like on some vfd tubes to ensure > > the digits stay off. > > > It'll be interesting to see what happens JR, let me know what > > voltages, connections and resistors you end up with. > > > On 2 May, 21:24, John Rehwinkel <jreh...@mac.com> wrote: > > > >> Does anyone have any experience of these displays? > > > >> As far as I can tell they are electroluminescent, and are driven from > > > >> ac. > > > > You are correct. > > > > >> I'd like to use one of these and was wondering what sort of voltages > > > >> and waveforms i'd need, > > > > You'll need about 100-300 volts AC. Waveform and frequency don't matter > > much, but DC won't work. Higher frequencies will make it light bluer. > > It's really not very critical, they'd probably light just fine on wall > > current, but you'd really want some sort of current limiting before giving > > it a try! > > > > I have a few, I'll give 'em a try with some obvious things like one of > > those battery-powered fluorescent light drivers and a trivial inverter (555 > > driving a switching transistor connected to a 8Ω:1000Ω transformer as a > > step-up). I'll also try an ordinary EL inverter with a capacitor to soak > > up some output, since they don't like to run underloaded. > > > > >> they are similar in operation to a vfd but > > > >> without a heater. > > > > Not really, VFDs run on lowish (24-60) DC voltage. EL wire, panels, and > > displays work more like a leaky capacitor, where the leakage reappears as > > light. > > > > - John > > > -- > > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > > "neonixie-l" group. > > To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an > > email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > > To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. > > For more options, visithttps://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.- Hide > > quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out.
