Yes, but why use enamel coated wire in the first place? I've only ever used
it for winding inductors and transformers. I hate the stuff. Dipping in
molten solder usually works to remove the enamel, with a clean-up pass
using sandpaper.
My favorite protoboard wire is the old 80-wire PATA ribbon cables. In
Seattle, I can buy the ribbon cable for $1, giving me quite a bit of good
wire for the price. The wires easily separate with fingernails and the
insulation easily strips with fingernails too. Avoid the 40-wire version,
those use stranded wire instead of solid-core.

-Adam


On Sun, Dec 8, 2013 at 3:02 PM, AlexTsekenis <alextseke...@gmail.com> wrote:

> For any diameter of enamel-coated wire larger than a strand of hair, the
> burnt enamel should be removed to expose the copper. Otherwise solder
> wetting will be poor and the soldering process frustrating.
> You can do this using fine sandpaper, a file, or a sharp knife. Burning
> the enamel first makes removal easier. For thin wires the soldering iron is
> adequate. Larger diameters require a lighter. Even large diameters a small
> blowtorch. Tin the wire prior to soldering using a generous amount of flux.
> This will also show you if you did a good job scrapping off the burnt
> enamel.
>
> Alex
>
> On Sunday, December 8, 2013 10:55:05 PM UTC, Gideon Wackers wrote:
>>
>> Well the first board is filled with tubes, and my head is filled with
>> headache from peering at the board.. The enameled wire was very hard to
>> solder even after burning off the enamel layer. Although I do not dare to
>> show the abomination that I call "soldering" the tubes are all connected.
>> Don't worry I know how to solder, but the enamel wire was giving me a very
>> hard time. The nice thing about the enamel wire was that it was easy to go
>> through the forest of component legs. I'm off to bed.
>>
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