> > Sorry for the late response but I'm afraid i can't follow you. I searched for > high end nixie drivers but I couldn't find it (or I missed it). > Can you explain what you wrote in an easy way? Thanks.
One simple approach I use often is a device known as an optocoupler for the anode drive. These work by containing an LED (which is operated by your controller) shining on a phototransistor. They provide solid isolation between the high voltage and your CPU, they're easy to drive (like any other LED), and can even provide current gain. They tend to turn on and off a little slowly, so they're not useful for very high speed multiplexing, but for ordinary multiplexing and PWM dimming, they're fine, and the slower edges can reduce both electrical and audible interference. You need to choose units that can withstand your anode supply voltage, and carry enough current for the tubes they're switching. One suitable candidate is the Fairchild FOD852, which is easily available, costs 80 cents (US) in single quantities, is housed in a breadboard-friendly 4-pin DIP package, and is good for 300 volts and 150mA. Note that the minimum guaranteed current gain is only 10, so you shouldn't count on driving a lot of large tubes at once with just one of these, but for most purposes it'll be quite sufficient. - John -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/8900648C-19E8-468E-9D0B-97EAB72C8230%40mac.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
