Hi Kerry, If you just want something close to 67.5 volts, snap 8 9 volt batteries together. That will produce 72 volts open circuit but will pull down a few volts under load.
If you plan on using it a lot, then you might want to use these batteries https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M2Z442X/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 There are two kinds of lithium "9 volt" lithium batteries. Those that use 2 conventional LiPoly cells and only produce about 7.2 volts, and these that use 3 LiPo cells and produce almost exactly 9 volts. The beauty of these cells is that they are recharged using a micro-USB cable. An excellent use for all those old phone chargers laying around. Back to your question. That is a bad circuit. He's running at low frequency so the transformer is huge. It is not resonant so the output is a square wave. Lots of harmonics. They'll go through the bridge and appear on the output. He has no filtering to speak of. I'd use a resonant Royer oscillator running at high frequency. This is the basis of our company's induction heaters. Here is the open source one. http://www.neon-john.com/Induction/Roy/Roy.htm This one runs at about 80kHz. It outputs a sine wave so there is little output noise. The transformer will be tiny at the power you'll be operating. You will wind the transformer on a bobbin core. The primary will be something like 5 turns of Litz wire and the secondary will be something like 9 or 10 turns. The circuit board package to use these days is KiCAD. It's a professional quality program, is FOSS and it's development is mostly funded by CERN. Eagle used to be the go-to package but since they started renting their software and not selling it, most of the open hardware community had moved to KiCAD. Going from schematic to PCB is fairly straightforward. Each part must have an outline for the schematic and a footprint of the physical part for the PCB layout. You would draw the schematic editor and do a design rule check. This catches things such as lines close but not quite connected to a pin. When you're finished with the schematic, you fire up the PCB layout portion of the program. All your components' footprints will be there in one blob. You move them around the board, the dimensions of which you've already specified. The components are connected by "air wires". The layout is usually quite similar to the schematic layout. You route traces between components, switching from front to back as needed until all the air wires are gone. You'll run another design rule check which will catch things like crossed traces, connections not quite made, traces too close together and things like that. When you're satisfied with the layout, have the program produce Gerber files. These files contain the actual photoplotter instructions and are what you send to the board house. You MUST inspect these closely with a Gerber visualization program. You will frequently find mistakes that all the preceding steps did not. In the Linux world where I work, the program gerbv is the best. No idea about other environments. The last step is to prepare a specification document. It will specify the board size, what kind of board to use, how thick the copper should be in ounces, etc. And most importantly what each Gerber file is. Incredibly there is no convention on naming files. Most folks follow the Pcad (very expensive board layout program) protocol. Finally, you bundle the Gerbers up with the specification file into a zip. After having made arrangements with the board house you select, you email that zip (or sometimes upload onto a web page designated for that purpose), pay them and wait for your boards to return. Before you start any board work, I strongly suggest you download LTSpice and simulate your circuit. LTSpice is free and it works very well, especially if you enter all the characteristics for each part. ESR for capacitors, for example. I hope that's enough to get you started. John On 05/07/2018 08:27 AM, 'orange_glow_fan' via neonixie-l wrote: > Hi Guys, > > First off let me say that I know little about porting a circuit design > into a workable PC board design.. I could probably do this using perf > board and point to point wiring, but I'd prefer something more reliable > (and probably better looking) > > Having said that, can someone tell me how to do exactly that with the > pictured circuit?? This needs to be as compact as possible. > > It is a replacement for the old 67 1/2 volt 'B' battery used in vintage > AC/DC tube radios. The transformer is pricey too! I've tried contacting > the author, but there has been no response. The article was written back in > 2003, by a radio collector in Australia and I'm not sure if he still > 'around' > > Thanks for your input.. > > Kerry > > -- John DeArmond Tellico Plains, Occupied TN http://www.tnduction.com <-- THE source for induction heaters http://www.neon-john.com <-- email from here http://www.johndearmond.com <-- Best damned Blog on the net PGP key: wwwkeys.pgp.net: BCB68D77 -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "neonixie-l" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to neonixie-l+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send an email to neonixie-l@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web, visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/neonixie-l/de8e522a-1f1d-bf5d-1a5f-556d16c0edb1%40neon-john.com. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
