Jack,
In my experience balanced inputs are more important than balanced
outputs in a control room context. If you want to keep things
simple, forget the inserts. I wired mine out actually, so the
signal never leaves the module at that point. If I need outboard I
go from multitrack to outboard to line in. The line inputs on a
series one should be balanced - is there an integrated patchbay on
yours? The tricky thing I've seen regarding this is that the "line
in" signal hits the module first (balanced line receiver) then goes
to the integrated patch bay as an unbalanced signal (but it's
called multitrack or tape out) which normals to the "line in" which
IS unbalanced. I bypassed all of this as well so the signal
doesn't leave the module. It's a shorter path at least, and with a
30 year old board it's that many fewer contacts to pass signal
through.
The echo returns are balanced input, they shouldn't give you any
trouble.
Your patchbays are unbalanced - are you sure? Perhaps they're just
wired that way?
Please double check the 1/4" input jacks on the back for line in,
are you sure they're not TRS?
You sometimes can get away with lifting the cold side of the
balanced signal or taking it to ground, but it really depends on
what piece of gear is on the other end. I tried to get away with
it, but with a patchbay and a variety of outboard there will be
problems.
Sorry if this is convoluted, it's a complex topic when you're
getting a control room together.
I hope it helps - hollar back!
Frank
On Wed, Feb 17, 2010 at 2:25 PM, Jack Stauss <[email protected]>
wrote:
Here is the message that didn't go through:
I am nearing the completion of the rebuild of my Series one and
have now started to focus my attention on the patch bay(s) I will
be building to interface the console with all of my outboard gear,
888's etc.
Now as many of you already know the 1/4 jacks on the back of the
console are all unbalanced, it's is a 2 point send/return system
with a line input and a direct output for each channel so there are
4 jacks per channel plus all the busses, mains, echo sends returns
etc. Any way to get to the point,I have a lot of cabling to my
patch bays to do and I want to make sure it is all done correctly
the first time.
All of my patch bays are unbalanced, all of my 1/4 connectors on
the console are not, all of my outboard gear is balanced, all of my
888's and midi interfaces are balanced...my head is becoming
extremely unbalanced at the thought of integrating all of this.
How exactly do I go about wiring these patch bays correctly so they
can interface with the console and other gear without any issues?
Can I just insert the TRS connectors into an unbalanced 1/4 jack
and not have to worry about changing connectors and soldering the
common and ground together or is there some other thing I should be
doing?
Is it worth it for me to think about balancing the hundreds of 1/4
points on the console?
HELP?
Jack Dean Stauss
No Static Pro Audio Inc.
3083 N. California St.
Burbank, Ca. 91504
818-729-8554
818-729-8551 Fax
www.nostaticav.com
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On Feb 17, 2010, at 11:18 AM, Jack Stauss wrote:
Test!
I sent an e-mail yesterday regarding unbalanced outputs and
balanced patchbays...have not seen it yet
Jack Dean Stauss
No Static Pro Audio Inc.
3083 N. California St.
Burbank, Ca. 91504
818-729-8554
818-729-8551 Fax
www.nostaticav.com
Confidentiality Notice: This e-mail message, including any
attachments, is for the sole use of the intended recipient(s) and
may contain confidential and privileged information. Any
unauthorized review, use, disclosure or distribution is prohibited.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender by
reply e-mail and destroy all copies of the original message
On Feb 15, 2010, at 1:12 PM, Sebago Sound wrote:
I actually talked to Mike over at Sytek - he said the only access to
that module is from the bottom of the console, which would require
tipping it up on end or on the rear, removing the legs and then
removing the bottom panel. Sounds like I'd have plenty of access once
I did that, but it's going to be pretty disruptive. Seems like there
is some debate over the best way to access, either through the rear or
bottom. If I can actually get in there enough to at least clean the
switches, and possibly replace the socketed IC through the rear
without having to tip the thing up on end, that would be preferable.
I'll at least be able to take a closer look this evening. Thanks so
far for the suggestions.
Bill
On Mon, Feb 15, 2010 at 12:33 PM, Jim <[email protected]> wrote:
Greetings,
We've put up quite a few (but not all) of the IC and other semi-
conductor
data sheets on the Neotek Web Site. I'm pretty sure the logic stuff
from the
S3C is up, if not I have them here.
Regards, Jim
www.analogbros.com/neotek
At 02:49 PM 2/15/2010, you wrote:
Hi
A TL0 74 is a lower noise, higher specification version of an '84
and as
such either will work in the audio circuits but the '74 is
considerably
quieter.
There are of course far better chips available now (20 odd years
later!)
but many will need an adaptor as they are SMD devices.
The 4013 is a dual 'flip flop' but the 4020 is a counter divider
chip and
are not at all similar. Google the data sheets to see what they do.
Matt S
[email protected] wrote:
Why is it that some module use a TL084 in the op amp before the EQ and
some have TL074? Which is correct? All so I have had some modules
that had a
4013 chip and some used a 4020 chip. Which is correct as there
seems to be
no answer on my schematics. This is for input modules.
Thanks,
Clark
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