Tommy,
That part Brian gave the link to will work just fine. If you get
(or have) a crimping tool and some good quality .250 QC (quick connect)
connectors in 12 awg (Yellow sleeve) and 14 awg (blue sleeve), you can
actually change the bridge yourself without soldering. You can probably
get the crimper and some crimps at an Auto parts store as a kit, but I
can't vouch for the quality of the crimps.
As for your other supply, that's a weird one. If the two internal 7
amp fuses really are good, there's a much deeper problem that will need
to be looked at by a tech. I'm happy to supply any needed knowledge or
docs to whoever you get. If you get really jammed, I have a working PS-3
here in the shop.
All the best,
Ike
On 11-04-19 11:31 PM, Tommy Mokas wrote:
Brian,
Is this something I can safely swap out and see if it works without
putting the power supply in danger? Also, I've powered up my other
power supply and it powers up with a 5A fuse but the +18 and -18
lights aren't lighting up, but the fuses are fine...any thoughts on that?
On Tue, Apr 19, 2011 at 11:07 PM, Brian Roth <[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
I knew Ike would have the definitive answer for the correct fuse
value!
Indeed, the rectifier diodes lead a rough life as they deal with
large power-on inrush surges due to charging of the large filter
caps in the PSU.
I'm sure Ike does this same thing: up-size the rectifier to the
highest amperage rating that will physically fit into the
available space inside the unit. It also doesn't hurt to up-size
the PIV (voltage) rating as well.
If the rectifier is a 4-terminal "bridge" that is bolted to the
chassis, like this:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Refine.aspx?Keyword=625-GBPC3506-E4
....be sure to apply a thin film of silicon heat sink grease on
the underside of the bridge to help move heat from the bridge to
the metal panel when the bridge is bolted down.
The example bridge I linked above is rated at 35 Amps. I believe
I've seen rectifiers in that same package rated at 40 Amps or more.
Best,
Bri
On 4/19/2011 21:03, Ike wrote:
Hi all,
The correct mains fuse value for a stock PS-3 is 5 amp
slow-blow, as
Brian says. I THINK that the Sytek rebuilt units have up rated
transformers which could account for the 7 amp fuse on your spare
supply. If the fuse has vaporized, the most likely culprit is
a failed
bridge rectifier. Any competent tech should be able to replace it.
Best
Ike
Ike Zimbel
Zimbel Audio Ltd
416-720-0887 <tel:416-720-0887>
www.zimbelaudio.com <http://www.zimbelaudio.com>
<http://www.zimbelaudio.com>
Sent from my iPhone
On 2011-04-19, at 9:44 PM, Tommy Mokas
<[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>
<mailto:[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>>> wrote:
Thanks for the response Brian. Well, the fuse is
definitely blown,
which is disheartening at this hour...but alas, I'm going
to go get
more fuses right now, and I'll report back soon. Hopefully its
something simple, although I'm doubting it is for some
reason. Anybody
have a neotek tech in NYC, in case I need to make that call?
On Tue, Apr 19, 2011 at 9:05 PM, Brian Roth
<<mailto:[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>>[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>
<mailto:[email protected]
<mailto:[email protected]>>> wrote:
If the inside of the glass tube of the fuse has black
"crap" blown
all over, that sounds as if there is a short circuit
somewhere
inside the power supply. But, if the wire link inside
is merely
broken, it could be a case of "who knows?"
I don't have schemos for that unit, so I can't say
whether 5 or 7
Amps is correct. It almost certainly needs to be a
slow-blow type.
I think you will be OK trying a 5A slow-blow in there
to see if it
blows again. If it blows again, STOP and have the PSU
serviced. If
the fuse holds and the desk works, the next step would
be to see
if 7A is actually the correct value, which could
explain the blown 5A.
Best,
Bri
On 4/19/2011 19:09, Tommy Mokas wrote:
Hello Neoteks,
Quick question, if the fuse on the back of the
power supply blows,
what should be my main concerns? There was no other
reason for
me to
believe that the power supply wasn't functioning
correctly
until my
biz partner went to turn it on and it didn't power
up. I just
got back
into town to find a blown fuse in the back.
The fuse that was in it was a 5A 250V 3/3. However
I have a backup
power supply (which I've never needed) that has a
sticker
indicating a
7a fuse. I assume this referring to amps, but I
want to be
sure. Is it
possible that the other power supply (which
apparently serviced in
'96) has a changed value on this particular fuse?
Is that a
mod done
to these?
And for my final question, am I risking the power
supply by
putting
the same fuse in only to have it blow again? I
don't want to
do any
more damage but I do have work to do :). Any
insight is really
appreciated, especially if you're a night owl such
as myself.
Thanks
so much!
Best,
Tommy Mokas
Casa Nova Studios
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