Yeah, to remove the airbox you need to pull it out through where the rear tire 
area. It seems like a lot of work, but it really isn't that bad. Takes about 45 
minutes to get everything out on my 83 650, and you can clean everything up 
while you're in there.

If you just want to get the bank of carbs out, you can carefully remove the 
rubber boots between the airbox and carbs, remove the tank, and pull the carbs 
out. The choke cable runs on one side of the frame and the throttle cables on 
the other IIRC, so remove the choke cable from the right side of the frame, and 
the carbs will slide out the left side of the bike so you can attach the 
throttle cables. If you have a stool to set the carbs on or an assistant it 
will make the procedure easier to get the cables attached/removed.


On Nov 27, 2010, at 12:12 PM, surfswab wrote:

> I have the same single-cable throttle issue and new parts in hand, but
> I'm reluctant to get into it, after reading up on it in the Clymer
> manual.  It calls for dismantling half the bike -- rear wheel, fender,
> airbox and carbs.  That seems excessive to me, so I'd be interested in
> hearing how you work it out, if it involves less effort.
> 
> Have you checked out the POR15 site for rust repair solutions?  They
> have brush paintable products that don't require a lot of prep.  I
> bought a small-quantity kit from them for $20 that includes everything
> you need for rust conversion and topcoating.  Haven't used it yet,
> since I scored a near-new set of pipes from one of our members here.
> But I plan to use it on a second bike, eventually.
> 
> Here's a link:   http://www.por15.com/
> 
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