Do what Graham and Tommy suggest and bleed the master cylinder. However you
my need a mityvac or at least using one will greatly speed up the process
and reduce your stress levels. You can pick one up for around $25 from any
auto parts store. If you can't spend the cash or borrow one the old way of
bleeding brakes will eventually work. That process is to prime the MC like
Graham said, then have a helper open the slave cylinder bleed valve, then
squeeze the lever 3/4 of its travel, and while holding this position on the
MC lever close the slave cylinder bleed valve. Repeat this process a dozen
times and you  should start to get pressure at the lever. Now squeeze the
lever BEFORE releasing pressure from the slave cylinder, but don't let the
lever bleed down all the way, and DO NOT allow the lever to return while
the slave cylinder bleed valve is open or you'll just suck in more air. You
probably won't be able to get all of the air out, but as long as you can
get the clutch operation functioning well enough to ride the rest of the
air bubbles will work their way out during use.

On Wed, Oct 28, 2015 at 7:50 AM, Tommy Hill <ominbo...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I wrap a cloth around the bango bolt when I don't have a helper.  Works
> pretty well.  If the air is in the top end, you can also turn the handle
> bars fully to the right and leave overnight.  This will often restore
> normal ops.  If the air is below the MC, this probably won't work.
>
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