Thanks for the info on the SB28 AF beam, I'd like to hear from others about their experience with it's apparent dullness compared to the SB24. Re: your question on the F4, I had owned a 801s (8008s) for 5 years before I picked up my F4s. The F4s was second hand and had only shot 110 rolls of 36 exp - this was confirmed by the Nikon service agent when they carried out an inspection of the camera for me pre handing over my hard earned $$$$. Initially I used to use the 801 for all general work and the F4 for the good stuff, I started to question this and why I had the F4. It seemed a waste to leave it at home and use an 801, besides I brought it to take pictures with not leave in a sealed case. I brought it because it sat in my hands so well, I brought it because it was built to withstand the drops that the Nikon 601 didn't withstand (there is lots of pretty coloured intestines in a 601 - I've seen inside it), I brought it because it was from all accounts I had heard and read - the camera body I could use anywhere. I brought it because it was reasonably cheap - I could afford it without going into debt. So I quickly decided to get rid of the 801s. I could not justify having a F4s otherwise. IMHO the F4s is just about perfect - the ONLY thing I miss is the ability to dial up other shutter/aperture combinations of the same EV as you can do with the command dial on the 801. Other than this little thing it is by far the best camera I've owned - be it Nikon, Minolta or Canon. One of the things I dont miss with the 801 was its remarkable ability to freeze up when I wanted to take pictures of my kids in an indoor swimming centre or of butterflies in a heated/humidified enclosure at the zoo. The 801 failed every time no matter what I tried. It was checked out by the Nikon service agent and found to be OK. The F4s & my NEVER FAIL - ALWAYS TRUSTY - FM2 have never let me down in these same places. I cant comment on the F90, I've never laid eyes on one and frankly I dont want too. If there is one thing about photography I've learnt after spending heaps of $$, it is that like computers you can get addicted to the "upgrading" game. You have to find a camera that you are comfortable with. It needs to sit in your hands comfortably, the dials, knobs, switches, levers etc need to be easy to get to - FOR YOU & no one else. You have to accept that no amount of $$ will get your PERFECT picture. The alloy or plastic box that holds the film is only one part of the equation. You need a good sharp lens, the ability to hold it still and a good eye for your picture - timing & framing. Shutter speeds are shutter speeds and apertures are apertures - you cant change these things (EXACT accuracy of these things just does not matter, your picture will not look any better if it is taken a half of one nanosecond better than some old box brownie if you have not got if framed or focused properly, nor do the fancy program modes as they are only other names for aperture or shutter priority, some with a bit of icing on them to make them a bit sweeter) At the end of the day its the person pushing the shutter release that makes the picture. The box, mechanics, electronics & glass only help to get what you see onto the film. Happy camera hunting. Tony Balm [EMAIL PROTECTED]
