Roy ; I like to set 'em up a little bit " light " to compensate for the center wear :
Wheels off the ground , steering gearbox full to tippy top with 90W gear oil then grease all the king pins and tie rod ends until the front wheels easily move side to side with light hand pressure . Ajust the worm gear pre-load to 2 # or so , use a fish scale attached to the outer spoke of the steering wheel and pulled at a 90° angle (' Tangential Pull ') , then center the steering box and adjust to barely zero play , if you're lucky it'll actually get tighter feeling as you turn it off center but *not* be so stiff the steering won't " unwind" by itself as you come around a right hand corner , let go the steering wheel and punch the gas . It's a trick getting the pre-load & slack adjustments to balance with the worn spot on the center of the worm gear ~ if you read the GM steering gearbox rebuild insteructions they tell you to set it up tight in the dead center as it'll be looser as you turn off center , this is O.K. as 90 % of the wear occurs in the center position . Removing the drag link is usualy easier than popping the pitman arm off and allows you to ascertain *true* centerpoint , this is _VERY_ important as these were just slapped to-gether by bored assembly line workers and are often a few splines off center... this screws up the front end's geometry and makes the rig less pleasureable to drive . if the pitman arm isn't pointing straight down when the box is in true dead center , then you'll need to remove it and properly position it a few splines . As always , the Devil is in the details . So to recap : preload on the _worm_ gear , NOT the sector adjustment , that one gets adjusted best as can between less play and too much drag . I hope this helps ? . -Nate Roy wrote: > > I think I have seen some stuff on this before but can't find it. The Shop manual says to disconnect pitman arm and adjust for 1 to 1.5 lbs tangential pull on the wheel to maintain motion near the ends of ravel. Then it says to adjust lash adjuster for no play then check for 2 to 2.5 max tangential pull through center. I thought I saw something that essentially said adjust for 10 lb tangential pull at center then adjust out all play with lash adjuster. That would be easier than pulling the pitman arm loose. Am I crazy or did someone provide the latter procedure? Does it sound reasonable? > > Roy Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/