Roy ;

STP is good stuff ! won't leak out as fast , have very good EP 
(Extreme Pressure) characteristics too so stay with it .

Yes , you read what I wrote perfectly and you sound to have a good 
grasp of it .

There's a goodly bit of " feel " to it , if you found a new , 
American made worm gear (lucky dog) you can set up the lash to zero 
play or maybe even a tiny bit of preload whist in the dead center .

The dead center of thew wheels turning ability is often different 
from the dead center os the steering box , is why it's wise to 
disconnect the drag link as that's easier than grappling with a 
pitman arm puller...

I personally like 'em as close as i can get to zero lash without any 
binding as I drive these oldies like they were made to be driven ~ 
hard & fast =8-) .

-Nate 
     Roy   wrote:
>
> Nate,
>      This all came about because I rebuilt the steering box and am 
trying to get it "right". I filled the box with STP oil treatment as 
I thought I saw that as a recommendation in an earlier post. Am I Ok 
with that or should I get it out of there and put 90W in?
>       Second, some of your terminology went over my head. If I got 
it right, what I think you are saying is to adjust the big screw at 
the bottom of the shaft for 2# pull with wheels off the ground, then 
adjust the lash adjuster for zero "slop". I went to great pains to be 
sure the pitman arm is straight down at the center of wheel travel. 
That is one of the reasons I don't want to F with it.
> 
> Roy
> 
>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: vwnate1 
>   To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
>   Sent: Saturday, September 22, 2007 5:06 PM
>   Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Steering gear adjustment
> 
> 
>   Roy ;
> 
>   I like to set 'em up a little bit " light " to compensate for the 
>   center wear :
> 
>   Wheels off the ground , steering gearbox full to tippy top with 
90W 
>   gear oil then grease all the king pins and tie rod ends until the 
>   front wheels easily move side to side with light hand pressure .
> 
>   Ajust the worm gear pre-load to 2 # or so , use a fish scale 
>   attached to the outer spoke of the steering wheel and pulled at a 
>   90° angle (' Tangential Pull ') , then center the steering box 
and 
>   adjust to barely zero play , if you're lucky it'll actually get 
>   tighter feeling as you turn it off center but *not* be so stiff 
the 
>   steering won't " unwind" by itself as you come around a right 
hand 
>   corner , let go the steering wheel and punch the gas .
> 
>   It's a trick getting the pre-load & slack adjustments to balance 
>   with the worn spot on the center of the worm gear ~ if you read 
the 
>   GM steering gearbox rebuild insteructions they tell you to set it 
up 
>   tight in the dead center as it'll be looser as you turn off 
center , 
>   this is O.K. as 90 % of the wear occurs in the center position .
> 
>   Removing the drag link is usualy easier than popping the pitman 
arm 
>   off and allows you to ascertain *true* centerpoint , this is 
_VERY_ 
>   important as these were just slapped to-gether by bored assembly 
>   line workers and are often a few splines off center... this 
screws 
>   up the front end's geometry and makes the rig less pleasureable 
to 
>   drive . if the pitman arm isn't pointing straight down when the 
box 
>   is in true dead center , then you'll need to remove it and 
properly 
>   position it a few splines .
> 
>   As always , the Devil is in the details .
> 
>   So to recap : preload on the _worm_ gear , NOT the sector 
>   adjustment , that one gets adjusted best as can between less play 
>   and too much drag .
> 
>   I hope this helps ? .
> 
>   -Nate
>   Roy wrote:
>   >
>   > I think I have seen some stuff on this before but can't find 
it. 
>   The Shop manual says to disconnect pitman arm and adjust for 1 to 
>   1.5 lbs tangential pull on the wheel to maintain motion near the 
>   ends of ravel. Then it says to adjust lash adjuster for no play 
then 
>   check for 2 to 2.5 max tangential pull through center. I thought 
I 
>   saw something that essentially said adjust for 10 lb tangential 
pull 
>   at center then adjust out all play with lash adjuster. That would 
be 
>   easier than pulling the pitman arm loose. Am I crazy or did 
someone 
>   provide the latter procedure? Does it sound reasonable?
>   > 
>   > Roy 
> 
> 
> 
>    
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>




Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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