Top end oiling is well documented in the Chevrolet repair manuals from year to year and there were many changes up through the early 60s. This was well discussed here a few years ago. Nate's solution is one combination of many that will work depending on... On some heads, there are restriction passages (refer to the manual), and in some rare cases, mixing and matching can lead to heartache (I've been there). I would make sure that you are satisfied with your mix and match for both supply to the top end and that you don't drop flow/pressure too much on the bottom end.
It is my intent, one of these days, to post all the rocker arm oiling configurations from the Chevrolet manuals from 1954 to 1961 on this site. I think it would be useful. Allen '50 3100 -----Original Message----- From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Green, Steven D Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 10:42 AM To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Top End Oiling Geez: I've seen those little plugs in the 235 heads for years and never knew what they were good for. (Remember some Y-block Fords with top oiler kits added that required the supply line be slipped in under the valve cover, which always looked like a poor solution.) Seems Nate has probably forgotten more about these old motors that I'll ever know.....but I'll keep reading these posts Steve 1953 3100 ________________________________ From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of vwnate1 Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 10:31 AM To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Top End Oiling Good deal Dave If it's been running over 5 minutes and still no oil to the top end , the oil passages between your late full pressure block and early Babbit Pounder head prolly don't line up . (I didn't know you could use an early head on a late block) As mentioned , there might be a wasp waisted bolt gone missing or in the wrong hole *but* there's a simple , GM APPROVED fix for this : run a 1/8" steel line around from the oil pressure port on the left rear middle of the block , around behind the engine and up to the 1/4" pipeplug in the dead center of the cylinder head , that's what it's there for ~ the early engines often clogged up the internal oil tube so they added this port especially for problems . DO NOT use copper tubing ! I know it's cheap and easier to work with but it _will_ crack and leak in due time . BTW : these engines (even the late 235 & 261) used by pass oiling for the rockers so only expect to see oil weeping out of the rocker's weep holes and maybe not any @ idle , it depends for each engine . -Nate OK She is running, it has 30 lbs pressure at the gauge. Checked timing and dwell, perfect. The block is a 56 and the head is 53 so maybe the oiling to the top is blocked? In the oil filter any ideas for a filter number? I bought a fram canister, not quite right but it is better then nothing. Next is brakes and change the fluid in the rear end and start driving her. Dave [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule! To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-truck/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
