great5852:
I put my clutch and transmission back together a few months ago. On mine the
pivot ball was already secured to the bell housing. I purchased a new clutch
fork spring keeper, inserted into the clutch fork and then just pushed the
clutch fork onto the pivot ball.
Hope this helps,
Kent Butler
'56 Chevy 3100
Houston, TX
----- Original Message ----
From: great5852 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, January 18, 2008 8:03:34 PM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Clutch removal of '58 3 speed on a 235 engine
Worked just like you guys said it would, THANK YOU!
As I'm cleaning things back up and putting stuff back together have a
couple more questions. Does anyone remember if their clutch fork
pivot ball seats completely into the clutch fork ball socket? Try as
I might I can't get the clutch fork spring keeper to seat in its
retaining slot with pivot ball nested in its ball socket as I dry fit
it outside the bell housing. The pivot ball only goes down
about...and rides about 1/4 inch into the base of the socket. Do you
put the whole assembly back in and tighten it to the bell housing
while attached to the clutch fork or do you screw the pivot ball in
to the bell housing then try to pop the clutch fork onto the ball
with the spring keeper already in place inside the clutch fork? I
don't see this working right. I have tried putting the spring keeper
in both ways and am having no luck. Any suggestions. Thanks.
--- In old-chevy-truck@ yahoogroups. com, "Bill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Very well put. Your proceedure discriptions are what I would have
> versed 30-years ago; too old now. ...bill
> ============ ========= ========= ========= =======
> --- In old-chevy-truck@ yahoogroups. com, "vwnate1" <vwnate1@> wrote:
> >
> >
> > You need to loosen each 1/2" bolt a turn or so , then turn the
> > flywheel to reach the next bolt , I like to use a leather
gardening
> > glove on the ring gear to avoid cutting my palm on the ring
gear's
> > teeth ~ I assume you've removed the sheet metal pan across the
> bottom
> > of the flywheel , there's two hidden screws , acessable through
> holes
> > in the crossmember that are prolly filled with greasy dirt right
> now
> > but you'll find them if you poke at it . if you remove the spark
> > plugs , it's far easier to turn the engine , you're going to be
> turning
> > it a bunch on this job as that big cast iron thing is the Bell
> Housing
> > and you don't remove it for clutch work .
> >
> > Remember : only one turn of each bolt at a time , then move on to
> the
> > next one , this way you loosen up the critical clutch ' cover '
> > (pressure plate) evenly and won't warp nor bend it , once it's
off
> > you'll need to clean the _entire_ flywheel untill it's hospital
> clean
> > then put a dab of grease into the little bushing in the very
middle
> > where the input shaft of the tranny goes for support ~ this is
> called
> > the " Pilot Bushing " and if there's a curled up edge 'round the
> middle
> > of the bushing's hole , it's dead and should be replaced .
> >
> > When you install the new clutch , wipe down both metal friction
> > surfaces with alcohol or brake cleaner and clean rags , use a
> clutch
> > alignment tool and if the bolts are not all exatly alike , get a
> full
> > set of brandy new ones in grade 8 with split lockwashers ,
install
> them
> > all loosely then turn untill snug and then go around and around
> giving
> > each one only _one_ turn at a time with your socket wrench , this
> > drawrs the Clutch Cover in evenly so it'll work right and last
> longer .
> >
> > _SOME_ rebuilt or new Clutch Covers come with removeable clips to
> hold
> > it relaxed for easier installation , ASK the guy who sells it to
> you if
> > this is so as you'll need to remove them _after_ you've tightened
> all
> > the bolts .
> >
> > I hope this helps .
> >
> > -Nate
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
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