Your accessory voltage reducer is nothing more than a large carbon pile 
resistor.  The way it drops voltage is by dissipating heat.  Keep that thing 
away from anything you don't want to melt.  A few on the list have provided 
good suggestions: measure the voltage to see where you are.  The advantage to 
the resistor you have is that if it decided to fail, it pushes the carbon pile 
out the end - no catastrophic failure to do any damage.  Another option is to 
look in a FLAPS heater motor catalog and find an exact, 12V replacement 
(mounting posts and shaft length/diameter) for your 6 volt motor.  That's what 
I did on my 50 to eliminate the need for an external resistor and nobody can 
tell the difference by looking.  A $35 job back then.  Note that your two speed 
heater switch does the same thing as your accessory voltage reducer - it has a 
resistor in line for the low speed.  Perhaps a motivation to get the "correct" 
motor in your heater box.  Given you have converted everything else to 12v, 
there seems to be little motivation to keep the original heater motor.



A stock tube radio on the other hand, is another story.  Your accessory voltage 
reducer would not work very well (I'll bet you it would eventually fail in 
short order).  I used a LARGE heat dissipating ceramic resistor with my tube 
radio for that job.  And it gets way too hot to touch because as someone 
mentioned, the radio draws oodles more amperage than the heater motor.  FYI, if 
you do have a radio and have converted to 12v, you can replace the power supply 
vibrator in the radio with choice 1) a solid state vibrator for more stable 
output (that's what I did) or choice 2) they now make a solid state vibrator 
that allows for 12v input.  Even a better option to get rid of that hot 
resistor.  Some modification is needed, though (like changing the face light 
bulbs to 12v).



Good luck.



Allen

'50 3100

________________________________
From: [email protected] [[email protected]] on 
behalf of fahrbach51 [[email protected]]
Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2012 7:56 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Voltage Reducer



Help for the limited of knowledge, please. After converting my 1951 3600 to 
12-volt, and with the onset of another Kansas winter, I've decided to make 
ready the dealer-installed recirculating heater. After replacing the hoses and 
running through some magic radiator sealer, I believe the core will hold. Now 
to the 6-volt fan motor. I purchased, from Classic Parts of America, part 
#24-996 Accessory Voltage Reducer which is supposed to reduce the voltage for 
radios or heaters. I have no reason to advertise for them, I mention it only in 
case someone wants to look up that part and see what I have. I powered the 
heater fan switch directly from the ignition switch, and wired the reducer 
between the post on the switch and the fan motor, and the switch will power the 
motor at all 3 speeds, but I don't believe it is reducing any voltage. I swear 
the fan is spinning fast enough to move the pickup forward, and I'm just 
certain it is receiving too much voltage. Also, th! e reducer gets very hot. 
Any advice appreciated on whether I'm installing the reducer incorrectly? I 
don't want to burn up this 60 year old motor, and also wonder if it isn't wiser 
to part with $65 and buy a 12-volt motor?

And most importantly, my heartfelt gratitude goes out to all Veterans, living 
and parted, who have sacrificed to make our homes and families safe. There are 
more of us than you know who do not take your gift to us for granted.

Fahrbach '51 3600





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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