I didn't have mtr installed on those hosts.  The path is definitely
asym: 17 hops YVR-LAX, 10 hops coming back.  But both ways the
traffic routes through Chicago, giving me those spectacular 100ms
RTTs :-P

I ran several traceroutes from the YVR side, and they all pointed
to Calgary as the choke point.  But whatever it was has cleared up
now.

.--lyndon
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