When you say "waterproof", exactly what do you do or apply? Thanks,
-- Harry On Thursday, April 30, 2015 at 8:26:22 AM UTC-4, Brooks1975 wrote: > > I can see where you needed extra support with the 67 pound card stock. > Spreading the hull to shape takes a good bit of force. With 130 pound > card stock it is even harder to shape, but the folded benches are much > stronger. Putting long "V" troughs under the seats to turn them into > triagular 'tubes" works well and gives extreme strength. I have it all > rigged now. I had a kite handle and string from a large kite I bought > years ago. I use 150 pound test fishing line and a surf casting reel to > fly my kite so I had the brand new woven kite string to rig the boat. I > used a pin vise and bits to drill holes through the gaff and mast to attach > the stays and sails. Not really needed, but very secure. I folded over > excess paddle backing then cut into "T" shapes to make the cleats for the > mast stays and sail lines. I folded the front cleat horizontal just > outside and below the port rope guide so it would not tangle with the > harpoon line if real. The boat is all finished now. I cut the tip of the > harpoon to a single side, similar to the hinge heads used for deep > penetration the rotate to "hook". I am going to use more of the extra > paddle backing to make cross bars on the stand posts to cradle the boat. > Even with the post tops cut into curves it is easy to bump the boat off > the stand. I will shape the cross bars to the hull and waterproof so I > have more of a cradle and much more support, but everything on the boat is > finished. I do like the scrimshaw on the model base. It really dresses it > up and certainly something a whaler would do when building a model. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Papermodels II" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to [email protected]. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
