Collin wrote:
>I got in the KM and A35/2.8.
>The KM has a meter failure.
>But it doesn't appear to be the
>meter mechanism, but the mechanical
>interface on one end or the other.
Collin,
I bought a KM body real cheap about three months ago. I've been meaning to
take the top cover off mine to fix a dent in the prism cover and restore the
electrical connection to the hot shoe, but I just haven't gotten around to
it yet. I did get it part way off (don't ask -- long story), and it looks
like there are only a couple wires underneath. It's possible that you may
just have a bad connection somewhere -- a broken wire somewhere under the
top plate, a broken wire somewhere under the bottom plate, oxidation on the
battery contacts, or even oxidation on the surface of the button cell
itself. Also possible that the battery is in backwards, but you've probably
already checked that.
The owner's manual I got with mine mentioned that there's a battery test
function on the camera. You set the ISO to 100, and the shutter speed to
some setting I can't remember (I think it's 1 second, but can't remember).
Not sure if this is identical to any of the other SM or K bodies. Anyway,
at these settings, and with a good battery that's properly installed, the
meter should peg at the positive end of full scale. You may already know
that you've got a good battery, but this test is still useful because it
will tell you if the rest of the circuit is OK. If it passes the battery
test, but fails to measure light, you then know that the problem is likely
with the photocell. If it fails the battery test even though you properly
installed a new battery, the problem may be a "simple" one of bad continuity
-- perhaps just a dirty contact or broken wire somewhere.
Good luck!
Bill Peifer
Rochester, NY
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