On Mon, 25 Jun 2001 17:29:13 -700, you wrote:
SNIP
>No matter what lens you use, you will have
>shallow depth of field when you are working at near lifesize
>imaging. There is simply no way around this
Yep. Stack two US copper pennies together. Look at them
edge-on. The thickness of two pennies is the depth of
field for 35mm film (at f16 and lifesize
magnification.)
To compensate for shallow DOF, first I had to humbly
realize just how shallow macro DOF really is, at any
given distance/focal length/aperture. Then I had to try
to compose the photo to maximize the effect of the tiny
amount of DOF available.
For example, I try to position the camera so that the
film plane is parallel to a major portion of the
subject. I also like to emphasize the sharp areas by
blurring the background (use a longer lens, keep the
subject close and in front of a distant, uncluttered
background.)
I have a DOF calculator program called "fCalc" on my
computer. It is freeware, and probably available out
there somewhere. At lifesize (1:1) magnification using
a 200mm lens, the subject will be 15.7 inches from the
film plane, and at f16 the DOF is a miniscule 0.082
inches (.209 cm).
This photo was about 1/2 lifesize before cropping. At
f8, I had a whopping 0.116 inches (0.296 cm) of DOF to
work with. You can see the limited depth of field:
http://web2.airmail.net/linnm3/brown.jpg
It is a successful photo for me, because the part of
the subject I wanted in focus is actually in focus and
sharp.
With the best lenses, (and Pentax makes some fine Macro
lenses), there is more information on the film than can
be presented at normal web photo sizes (which I'll
demonstrate in my July PUG entry).
--
Happy Trails,
Texdance
http://members.fortunecity.com/texdance
http://members1.clubphoto.com/john8202
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