Hi Shel, too complicated for me. When I'm in these places I do like to keep everything as simple as I possibly can, which is one reason I standardised on one film type - I don't have to remember to change the film speed on the camera or meter (not a problem with the RXs of course). Recently I've been shooting either Scala at 200 or Tri-X at 400, and I keep forgetting which I have in the camera, and forgetting to mark the films where I've exposed at the wrong speed. It doesn't matter much because it's not stuff that's important to me, but I'd hate to lose track on rolls that mattered. Having more than one film speed at a time is more than my brain can keep track of <g>.
I've been thinking a bit more about ND filters though. With a rangefinder camera there isn't the problem with darkening the viewfinder, so they could be very useful. Does anybody happen to know what affect, if any, ND filters have on contrast? BTW, I haven't got a new meter yet - haven't made up my mind. I'm still dithering between the L608, Starlite and a LunaPro F with variable-angle attachment. Currently leaning towards the Starlite because of price. --- Bob mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sunday, November 18, 2001, 4:06:38 PM, you wrote: > Hi Bob, > Shooting with B&W negative allows for a great deal of flexibility. In > contrasty situations you can shoot "over" and then hold back on > development. With that new spot meter of yours, you can easily measure > the contrast range of the scene, and then expose and develop > accordingly. > For example, say you're shooting TX @ 400 in the early or later hours, > or on overcast days. Then comes the sun, and you know you're gonna lose > the shadows or blow out the highlights. So, shoot TX @ 200, or maybe > even 160, and then cut back on development time an established > percentage (20%? 25%? - whatever you've arrived at through testing). > The resultant negs will print nicely and you'll have both shadow and > highlight detail. IOW, as the old adage goes, expose for the shadows and > develop for the highlights. > There are some fringe benefits to this technique. If you are putting > together a portfolio or working on an essay, using one emulsion means > that all prints will have a similar look to them. And, shooting a 100 > speed film @ an EI of 50 or even 25 allows shooting at those nice, wide > apertures. Or using a 400 speed film @ an EI of 100 provides some > wonderful flexibility. If I recall, Salgado does something like this, > exposing TX at EIs between 160 or so and 800. > Shooting back lit subjects is especially easy in this manner. Just > expose for the face and hold back on development so the shy or > background doesn't' burn out. No need for flash with B&W neg film, no > need at all. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
