On Jan 13, 2009, at 12:40 PM, Igor Roshchin wrote:

3. The prints were coming a bit darker than what I was expecting them to
be. I cannot blame just the calibration of my CRT monitor, as I am
looking at the hystogram, - and it looks very reasonable.
Making the photos brighter would start blowing off the highlights.
(I am printing from LR.)

If your display is not calibrated, all bets are off when it comes to output color match on the printer.

Generally speaking, if prints are darker than the screen rendering, the screen brightness is set too high. The recommended screen brightness for a CRT is 100-110 CDma2 (Luminance in the Eye One Match software).

I didn't find profile for the _Ultra_... - only for "Premium Glossy
Photo", - so I am not sure if that what does the trick.

Check on the Epson website for any additional profiles for the "Ultra Premium Glossy" paper. I don't use it, all I have installed is the Premium Glossy default.

I was using "relative" intent in LR.
What would "perceptual" option would do differently?

More extensive explanations are available if you search for "Relative Colormetric" and "Perceptual" coupled with color management, but the long and the short of it is that they differ in how they treat out of gamut colors when translating from one colorspace to another, eg: from Lightroom's ProPhoto RGB to the paper.

Basically, Perceptual intent says that the eye will accommodate some shift in white point so shift all colors if there are some out of gamut relying upon that perceptually based accommodation according to an (complex) weighting algorithm.

Relative Colormetric intent basically says leave the in-gamut colors where they are and don't shift them at all, then bring out of gamut colors to the gamut boundary values.

If you have done your image adjustment work and all colors are within the printer/ink/paper gamut, results out of both are identical.

4. It might be the calibration of my monitor, but yellow and
light-brown colors were somewhat shifted towards red, becoming more
brown. (What I would call more of a typical Kodak film tone).

Again, without proper monitor calibration, all bets are off. For most consistent results, a hardware colorimeter and matching software is essential. I have been using the Eye One Display 2 since 2004 ... well worth the money.

--- How much do the cartridges typically last?
(some typical numbers for the number of certain size photos) -

The R2880 tanks are slightly smaller than the R2400 tanks. I get approximately 75 prints on A3 paper with a print area about 11x14 inches in size out of a full set of 8 tanks, plus or minus of course.

I am trying to estimate when (and how many) I should buy them.

Obviously, it depends on a) how much you print and b) how much you depend on being able to make a print at any time.

For most consumer users, if you buy an ink cartridge whenever the "getting low" indicator light starts flashing, you'll probably have enough ink still in the cartridge to cover any needs in the interim. Always check your ink before starting a big printing job and stock up if you don't have a replacement cartridge.

Because I depend upon having ink and paper available at any time, the intent of my stocking ink is to bring my backup supply to three replacement cartridges with a full set in the printer. Whenever I see I have more than two of the ink carts with less than 2 backup carts, I order ink to bring all backups to at least 3. Whenever I order paper, I check the ink supplies as well and do fill in to bring my backups to 3.

Do any of them get used more than the others while printing various
color photos?

Yes. Ink gets consumed depending on the mix of colors in the prints you're making. I have lately been printing a lot of medium to low key B&W images on matte paper with a warm tone, so in the past 40-50 prints I've consumed ink in the order:

Light Black 80%
Light Magenta 30%
Magenta 28%
Yellow 25%
Light Cyan 20%
Matte Black 15%
Cyan 10%
Light Light Black 8%

based on the status monitor readings. But that changes based on whether I'm doing a lot of high key, low key, or whether I do a large run of color work, etc.

Godfrey

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