When I had problems like this (many years ago, with my PZ-1p), the
problem was a borderline contact between the lens and the camera.
Hold the lens just the wrong way and the "A" pin didn't make contact,
so the camera took a shot or two with the aperture set to f/32 (I
usually shoot in Tv mode, so the shutter speed was fixed as well).

It took me a while to figure this out, but nowadays it should be
much, much easier - look at the EXIF entries to see what has changed.
If the "A" contact is suspect the lens information code will switch.
If, on the other hand, all the EXIF value look reasonable you may have
a lens that is misbehaving (a sticky iris, perhaps).



On Tue, Sep 08, 2009 at 11:31:25PM +1000, MikeM wrote:
> I think I might have not been clear about the 3 shots. They were not 
> taken in a burst. I looked at the results of each shot before taking the 
> next. I had only a Tamron 70-300 mm lens, the shots were taken along a 
> walking track, and I don't take other lenses on the walks.
>
> Mike
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "MikeM" <mmo45...@bigpond.net.au>
> To: <PDML@pdml.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 2:57 PM
> Subject: K10 problem
>
>
>> My K10 has started taking shots that are very dark followed by some 
>> shots that are ok then there are a few that are very dark followed by 
>> more that are ok. So far the bad shots have all been occurring in 
>> groups of 3. I don't know if that is just coincidence or not. In 1 
>> group of bad shots 2 were dark and 1 was so light it was difficult to 
>> make anything out.
>>
>> A few months ago my K100 started rebooting occasionally. Pentax quoted  
>> $549 to replace the circuit board. Does the K10 problem sound like it  
>> could be as serious, and expensive?
>>
>>
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