LoL..kinda wish I could let go. Actually, I knew better and have no excuses. I 
was honestly curious..yes, I know about the stiff cat.

Jack

--- On Mon, 4/5/10, P. J. Alling <webstertwenty...@gmail.com> wrote:

> From: P. J. Alling <webstertwenty...@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Define "blown out" :-)
> To: "Pentax-Discuss Mail List" <pdml@pdml.net>
> Date: Monday, April 5, 2010, 2:15 PM
> Well, I for one am staying the hell
> out of this.
> 
> On 4/5/2010 4:07 PM, David Parsons wrote:
> > I didn't see a question in your first post.
> >
> > On Mon, Apr 5, 2010 at 3:44 PM, Jack Davis<jdavi...@yahoo.com> 
> wrote:
> >    
> >> I only read as far as about half of your first
> sentence. I didn't need to read further as it was obvious
> you had missed the point of the question.
> >>
> >> Jack
> >>
> >> --- On Mon, 4/5/10, Godfrey DiGiorgi<gdigio...@gmail.com> 
> wrote:
> >>
> >>      
> >>> From: Godfrey DiGiorgi<gdigio...@gmail.com>
> >>> Subject: Re: Define "blown out" :-)
> >>> To: "Pentax-Discuss Mail List"<pdml@pdml.net>
> >>> Date: Monday, April 5, 2010, 12:05 PM
> >>> On Mon, Apr 5, 2010 at 10:27 AM, Jack
> >>> Davis<jdavi...@yahoo.com>
> >>> wrote:
> >>>        
> >>>> I'll offer mine the nebulous term by
> saying that if at
> >>>>          
> >>> least some surface areas are rendered
> featureless by virtue
> >>> of being too bright, I'd consider those areas
> "blown out."
> >>> Many images can tolerate a certain amount of
> this condition,
> >>> but it's amount is the criteria and varies
> with each viewer.
> >>> Said areas must, of course, contain some
> available mask
> >>> detail which defines the surface.
> >>>        
> >>>> IOW, I'm not talking about an absolute
> ball of glare
> >>>>          
> >>> wherein no detail is discernible.
> >>>
> >>> There's nothing nebulous about "blown out".
> Consider areas
> >>> of pure
> >>> white with no detail as Zone 9 on the Zone
> System
> >>> scale  defined as
> >>> follows:
> >>>
> >>> Zone 0 – key black or pure black – carbon
> or photo
> >>> paper black.
> >>> Zone 1 – near black – shadows in faint
> light or rooms
> >>> without light.
> >>> Zone 2 – dark gray/black – only subtle
> textures are
> >>> visible.
> >>> Zone 3 – very dark gray – distinct shadow
> texture is
> >>> visible.
> >>> Zone 4 – medium dark gray – slightly
> darker “black”
> >>> skin, dark foliage
> >>> or shadows in landscapes.
> >>> Zone 5 – medium gray or 18% gray – darker
> “white”
> >>> skin or lighter
> >>> “black skin,” light foliage or the dark
> blue of a clear
> >>> blue sky.
> >>> Zone 6 – mid-tone gray – average
> “white” skin or
> >>> shaded areas in snow
> >>> on a bright, sunlit day.
> >>> Zone 7 – light gray – pale “white”
> skin, a concrete
> >>> walkway in sunlight.
> >>> Zone 8 – gray/white, near white – distinct
> highlight
> >>> detail, like a
> >>> white wall in sunlight or brilliant surfaces
> in flat
> >>> light.
> >>> Zone 9 – known as key white or pure white
> – pure white
> >>> paper or snow
> >>> in bright sunlight.
> >>>
> >>> (Normally I think of the Zones as being from
> 1-10, but
> >>> Ansel was a C
> >>> programmer and did a 0-based count ... ;-)
> >>>
> >>> So, by definition, anything you want detail in
> is "blown
> >>> out" if your
> >>> exposure has placed it above Zone 8 on the
> above scale.
> >>>
> >>> Since I've never seen any application use
> 16-bit number
> >>> scales to
> >>> describe pixel values, you can determine what
> areas of your
> >>> image are
> >>> "blown out" in Photoshop or Lightroom using
> either a
> >>> percentage scale
> >>> or an 8-bit pixel value scale and floating the
> cursor over
> >>> white-looking areas while looking at the
> information
> >>> display panel.
> >>> Presuming that the exposure did not go to
> saturation and
> >>> there is data
> >>> in those bright areas, you can place them in
> adjustment
> >>> using the
> >>> Exposure (aka white point) sliders. This table
> makes it
> >>> easy ...
> >>>
> >>> http://homepage.mac.com/godders/zone-system-numbers.jpg
> >>>
> >>> EG: you have a near blown out area in a photo
> that you want
> >>> to ensure
> >>> images with detail on screen and in your
> prints. Float the
> >>> cursor over
> >>> it in Lightroom and see that it is currently
> at about 94%
> >>> in all
> >>> channels (or in one of them if that is the
> significant
> >>> color of the
> >>> area). Nudge the Exposure slider in the
> negative direction
> >>> until it is
> >>> in the range of about 85-88% to set that as
> the brightest
> >>> point. Now
> >>> make adjustments with the mid-tone, black
> point and Tone
> >>> Panel to
> >>> bring the rest of the photo into line with a
> satisfactory
> >>> display.
> >>>
> >>> A certain amount of area at Zone 9 is fine, as
> long as it's
> >>> not where
> >>> you wanted to convey detail. Too much Zone 9
> in an image
> >>> generally
> >>> looks bad. Another thing to be aware of is
> that many papers
> >>> and
> >>> monitor screens cannot display the full 10
> zone scale very
> >>> well, or
> >>> have non-linear characteristics ... That's why
> calibration,
> >>> profiling
> >>> and testing for DR are essential to good
> quality image
> >>> display,
> >>> whether on screen or on paper.
> >>> --
> >>> Godfrey
> >>>    godfreydigiorgi.posterous.com
> >>>
> >>> --
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