Ken Waller wrote:

>Larry, a few of the reviews for this talked about stacking two, one on top 
>of the other, at right angles to adjust side to side along with fore & aft.
>
>How do you adjust for nodal point ?

Technically, it's the entrance pupil of the lens that you're adjusting
for. (Every one refers to it as the "nodal point", but that's
technically a different point within the lens – though you'd need a
lens designer to explain the difference).

Someone's trying to compile an online database of Entrance Pupil
points for various lenses, but as of now there's only one Pentax lens
listed (the 10-17 fisheye):
http://wiki.panotools.org/Entrance_Pupil_Database

The Entrance Pupil is there the lens diaphragm *appears* to be when
the lens is viewed from the front. In my experience, just looking into
the lens and guestimating the distance works for all but the most
critical work. There are various ways of being more precise about it,
but in general you line up two objects, one very close to the camera
and one very far away, and change the position of the camera forward
and back on your pano head until the two objects don't change
positions relative to each other when the camera is panned left-right
(using live view is best for this).
 
-- 
Mark Roberts - Photography & Multimedia
www.robertstech.com





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