Try a re-cal and set the brightness to about 120

-p


On 9/5/2016 10:41 AM, David J Brooks wrote:
sounds like its time to lower the surtains even more and do a recal


On Mon, Sep 5, 2016 at 11:36 AM, Paul Stenquist <pnstenqu...@mac.com> wrote:
My room lighting is very dim. Shaded window light only. My monitor is set to 90 
sid, per Spyder 4 pro recommendation.

Paul via phone

On Sep 5, 2016, at 10:51 AM, David J Brooks <pentko...@gmail.com> wrote:

so i set up the Spyder3 today. It set the brightness to about 191, sid
the ambient light in my room was veryu high/. The monitor is quit
bright now, iMac 21.5" and i tried a sample print again. Still coming
out quit a bit darker than screen. Do i need to adjust the monitor
brightness now to a lower out put or will that effect my calibrartion
done,

I'm quite confused now as it had been printing out close to monitor
for a while. Maybe i should do a Walmart or Henrys kiosk print as a
double check

Dave

On Fri, Sep 2, 2016 at 9:46 PM, Godfrey DiGiorgi <godfreydigio...@me.com> wrote:
On Sep 2, 2016, at 10:53 AM, David J Brooks <pentko...@gmail.com> wrote:

I have purchased a new in box Spyderpro 3 as it will work with 10.6.8,
supposedly. I am having trouble matching the brightness on my iMac
21.5" screen to the print outs from my Epson 2400. The prints are
coming out quite a bit darker than what i see on my screen via LR
version 4.1. Should this help with my woes or will it just help with
the colours. This one has the ambient reciver.

If your prints are dark compared to the rendering you see on the display, it 
means you are doing your adjustments with a display set to too bright/too high 
a luminance value. The logic here is that if the display is set to too high a 
luminance (or the room is too dark relative to the display luminance), your 
adjustments are being made with your eye fooled into thinking that that is the 
correct (darker) illumination level. As a result, when you send the image to 
the printer, the printer prints it to match what it thinks is the display 
illumination, which is too dark. (Conversely, if your display is set too dim in 
too bright a room, your prints will come out too light.)

I don't know the Spyder Pro 3 software, I use the Xrite i1 Profiler software 
with the Xrite i1 Display Pro colorimeter. But they should all do similar types 
of things.

All of these calibration utilities depend upon a 'normal' room illumination to 
work correctly. My office where I do image processing is illuminated to low 
reading level … about ISO 100 @ f/2 @ 1/4 to 1/2 second if I do an incident 
reading at my desk. Because that's a little low, I set the calibration *target* 
for my display to 100 cdm^2. That's the first phase of the calibration 
procedure. Once the illumination is set, the software then runs tests and 
adjusts the display color mix to achieve my other two targets: 5600°K white 
point and 1.8 gamma. With the display then set to the calibration targets, it 
writes a display calibration profile which is installed into the macOS at the 
appropriate location in the file system, and sets the system to use that 
calibration profile.

With that setup in my system, the display at first appears a little bit dim and 
a little warm in color. However, what comes out of the printer is a very close 
match to what I see on the screen, which is my goal in a profiled printing 
workflow.

So: the display calibration system certainly helps get my prints coming out the 
right density and color presuming that it is used correctly. I can't imagine 
this would be any different for the Spyder Pro system.

R2400 is set to SPR2400 Premglossy Bstphoto.icc
Perceptual

Colour management in the print settings is greyed out but shows Colorsync
If you have selected a paper profile for color managed printing, Lightroom 
automatically locks out the ability to use EPSON Color Controls in the Color 
Matching section of the print driver interface. (The reason the grayed out 
controls show ColorSync enabled is that Lightroom uses ColorSync's ability to 
interpret the paper profile to drive the color matching.) If you were to set 
Lightroom to use Printer Managed color instead of selecting a paper profile, 
the Color Matching section of the driver would give you a choice between 
picking a ColorSync delivered paper profile or using the explicit EPSON Color 
Controls in the Printer Settings section of the print driver.

Mark R :: OK, ColorSync may be a means of implementing ICC profiles then.
ColorSync isn't a means of "implementing ICC profiles." It's the underlying 
rendering engine that ICC profiles are interpreted with. If you set LR to let the printer 
manage color, and pick the EPSON Color Controls, the print driver bypasses the ColorSync 
rendering engine and uses its own, Epson-supplied, color rendering engine which is based 
upon the paper chosen and the settings you make in the Basic|Advanced Color Controls 
sections of the Print Settings panel.

But this is a little beside the point. The issue is that the balance of ambient 
and display illumination isn't correct … the display is too bright relative to 
the ambient illumination, which causes adjustments to be skewed to the dark 
side when the numbers are sent to the printer.

-
Unfortunately, Paul Stenqvist's instructions regards how the print driver 
dialogs work for Photoshop are not correct for printing from Lightroom. They're 
very different applications with regard to printing.

How to print from macOS with Lightroom:

0) Calibrate and profile your display. This is step 0 because you do it outside 
of LR and only do it once.

Now, in Lightroom and unlike in Photoshop, there is no "Edit > Color Settings" 
dialog to set up all the various color working space, etc, stuff. Lightroom was not designed 
as a general purpose graphics application, it was designed exclusively for photography, so 
it automatically sets the default working color space for editing to ProPhoto RGB and 16bit 
per component. You bring your raw, JPEG, PNG, or TIFF files into Lightroom and they are 
automatically promoted to 16bit for editing in ProPhoto RGB colorspace. You only need to 
make color management settings for export or for printing, in either the Export dialog or 
the Print dialog.

In Export, the only option you have is what target color space profile you want 
embedded into the image.

In the Print module, the color management is controlled by a combination of the 
Page Setup and Print Settings dialogs, which in turn depend upon the specific 
printer/print driver that you choose, in conjunction with the Print Job panel 
settings.

1) Select a photo to print and go to the Print module
2) Click Page Setup at the bottom of the left panel

Pick the printer you are going to use, the paper type and feed type, and the 
orientation and scaling. Click OK.

3) Work your way down the right hand panels (Layout Style, Image Settings, and 
Layout primarily) to determine how you want the photo to image onto the paper.

Now you're ready to set up the print job and print settings.

4) In the Print Job panel, first set up the output to go to the printer.
5) Skipping the output resolution and other bits that should be self-evident, in the 
Color Management section either pick "Managed by Printer" to use the print 
driver's rendering engine, or pick a paper profile for a color-managed printing workflow.

Different options apply if using color-managed printing or "managed by printer" 
workflows. In either case, however, once you pick one, click Print Settings on the lower 
left to set up the print driver for that workflow mode. Different options apply for 
different printers and are supplied by the printer driver so there's no easy way to walk 
through all of the possibilities.

6) Once everything is done and the setup is complete in the Print Settings 
dialog, click OK.

At this point your back in Lightroom, ready to print. Before you print, however, 
use Print > New Template to create a printing preset with all those settings in 
it. This way in the future, all you have to do when printing the same size prints 
on the same printer is select the photos you want and select the printing preset.

7) Send images to the printer by clicking Print at the bottom of the right 
panel.

Printing is never simple.
-

But the fundamental problem is the display calibration, far as I can make out. 
Address that and you should be good to go.

G
—
The trouble with being punctual is that nobody's there to appreciate it.


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