Todd –

I agree that the Mitsubishi versions don’t keep the RH perfectly stabile and 
that adding silica can be useful. I assume I’ll be corrected on this forum, but 
my understanding of anoxic treatments is that the insects die from dehydration 
(vesicles open looking for oxygen and they dry out in that process), so lower 
humidity, presumably, will stress them/dry them more quickly.

Eric

From: pestlist@googlegroups.com <pestlist@googlegroups.com> On Behalf Of Todd 
Holmberg
Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2024 1:58 PM
To: pestlist@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [External] - [PestList] Anoxic Treatment Protocols

Eric-

Thanks!  It's interesting because according to our HOBO, there was a pretty 
significant gradual increase in RH over the course of the treatment even though 
we were using the Mitzubishi brand eaters (approx 5% rise over 21 days).  I put 
silica gel in the envelope that was conditioned at "50%".  The RH rise has me 
thinking about trying 40-45% gel for future treatments to try and keep it 
further away from flirting with the dreaded "60% line".

Thanks-
Todd

On Thu, Jun 27, 2024 at 12:46 PM Breitung, Eric 
<eric.breit...@metmuseum.org<mailto:eric.breit...@metmuseum.org>> wrote:
Those look more like meat sticks than oxygen absorbers.  Just kidding…I believe 
the Mitsubishi absorbers also claim to control humidity in the package.  
Unclear whether the ULINE product is doing the same, but maintaining humidity 
is often important for sensitive cultural heritage material stability.

Eric



From: pestlist@googlegroups.com<mailto:pestlist@googlegroups.com> 
<pestlist@googlegroups.com<mailto:pestlist@googlegroups.com>> On Behalf Of Todd 
Holmberg
Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2024 1:42 PM
To: pestlist@googlegroups.com<mailto:pestlist@googlegroups.com>
Subject: [External] - [PestList] Anoxic Treatment Protocols

Hello Pest list-

I am curious if anyone has used these oxygen absorbers from ULINE for anoxic 
treatments:

https://www.uline.com/BL_288/Oxygen-Absorbing-Packets

The ones we have used in the past were from Mitsubishi.  We have an account 
with Uline, so ordering these would be a little more convenient.  I wasn't sure 
if there were differences between absorbers and if there would be a reason to 
be cautious about using "any packet that is an oxygen absorber".

According to MuseumPest.net:

  *   Care must be taken to select the proper oxygen scavenger.  Some oxygen 
scavengers contain an added desiccant (e.g. RP Type A), which could decrease 
the equilibrium
Also, when considering performing an anoxic treatment on an "oil on canvas" 
painting, are there other critical concerns other than prussian blue?

The general specs of the treatment will be:
-In a Marvelseal envelope with oxygen eaters
-Flushed with nitrogen gas
-Temp around 70 F (room temp)
-RH in the 50%'s
-Duration 21 days

If anyone has insight into these Uline absorbers, or thoughts about the specs 
above, I would be grateful to hear what your thoughts are.


Thanks!
Todd
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