Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2010 10:59:01 -0800
From: lekirk...@sbcglobal.net
To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Need Address for Tim Fabrizio
I am Brandy Kirk and I am so sorry to let you know that (pappa)Lee passed
away January 28th at home.
Hello Al, Here is a copy of the e-mail his daughter sent Feb 3, 2010. She
used his Phono-L account to let us know. I purchased items from him on eBay and
he was always wonderful to deal with. I still have some of the parts he made
for the cygnet horns that look like chess pawns with holes in them. I did not
need them but I thought it was so wonderful that he was making them that I
puchased some. Steve
> To: phono-l@oldcrank.org
> From: clockworkh...@aol.com
> Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 18:13:56 -0400
> Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Mandrel bearing removal - a few more suggestions...
>
>
>
>
> I sure hope that Lee Kirk is still with us. I have one of his mandrel
> bearing tools and it works great. I have also made a small 'fly cutter' with
> centering jig that does the same thing. Lee was making new Orthophonic
> diaphragms as I recall. He is is a kind person and a true friend to fellow
> collectors who know him. Now I have to find out if he is alright.
>
> Lee also made a mandrel removal tool that was much more gentle than whacking
> off the mandrel with a mallet. Anyone with machine tool skills can make one.
> It is just like an automotive wheel puller with two arms to grip the
> cylinder mandrel from behind and a screw with centering point for the mandrel
> shaft indentation. Some heat on the mandrel at the friction points holding
> the mandrel and a bit of Kroil will make mandrel removal quick, simple, and
> safe. One secret is to put on the Kroil, let it sit, then to gently tap a
> wooden block with a hole in the middle on the open end of the mandrel and
> drive it a fraction more ONTO the mandrel shaft which has been cleaned of
> oxide from between the mandrel and the bearing. This loosens the mandrel
> without the thin outer end deforming as the wood presses equally across the
> end surface. Then when the mandrel is free to slide the puller is put on and
> gently takes the mandrel off of the shaft after the exposed end has been
> clean of
ox
> ide with crosus cloth. Liberal use of Kroil is advised and some may even be
> put into the mandrel through the holes (spray Kroil is good here).
>
> I once watched Tom Pollard remove a mandrel with a mallet and the sight of
> the mandrel flying off, bounding around the room, and landing at my feet was
> not a pleasant one. The indented outer end was not a pretty sight and the
> repair of an indented end is not fun. He did not repair the end.
>
> Now it is not always necessary to remove the mandrel bearing to affect a
> repair. Very often the bearing can be made serviceable again by attaching a
> speed control power drill to the mandrel shaft, applying some heat and
> penetrating oil, and slowly unsticking the bearing. In many cases the
> bearing is just fine. If a previous owner has used 3-in-1 oil on the
> bearing, the oil has turned to superglue. I always start by applying Kroil
> every hour or so then letting the bearing sit overnight. The next day the
> bearing is many times free with no other work needed and your machine remains
> all original. Finding a swollen bearing where the lubrication has solidified
> is not uncommon.
>
> Hope my comments help.
>
> May all your finds be rare ones,
>
> Al
>
>
>
>
> >You are lucky to have one of those. I think they were made by Lee Kirk who
> assed away last year I think.
> ave
>
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