Hi Al, Lee passed away January 28th, 2010. He was a great guy and able to do just about anything! He was also making reproduction parts for Bettini reproducers--the spider, etc. I was just about to order another set of "blued" bedplate screws, for Homes and Standards, when I found out he had passed away. He also made the Cygnet horn hangar, which is sometimes missing (the sliding piece with hole that the spring goes into). He was also making cranks, for just about anything, and sold all sorts of reproduction literature on Ebay. Last CAPS show I got a copy of his memorial booklet. He is missed.
Mike Sorter -----Original Message----- From: [email protected] To: [email protected] Sent: Thu, Jul 7, 2011 3:13 pm Subject: Re: [Phono-L] Mandrel bearing removal - a few more suggestions... sure hope that Lee Kirk is still with us. I have one of his mandrel bearing ools and it works great. I have also made a small 'fly cutter' with centering ig that does the same thing. Lee was making new Orthophonic diaphragms as I ecall. He is is a kind person and a true friend to fellow collectors who know im. Now I have to find out if he is alright. Lee also made a mandrel removal tool that was much more gentle than whacking off he mandrel with a mallet. Anyone with machine tool skills can make one. It is ust like an automotive wheel puller with two arms to grip the cylinder mandrel rom behind and a screw with centering point for the mandrel shaft indentation. ome heat on the mandrel at the friction points holding the mandrel and a bit of roil will make mandrel removal quick, simple, and safe. One secret is to put n the Kroil, let it sit, then to gently tap a wooden block with a hole in the iddle on the open end of the mandrel and drive it a fraction more ONTO the andrel shaft which has been cleaned of oxide from between the mandrel and the earing. This loosens the mandrel without the thin outer end deforming as the ood presses equally across the end surface. Then when the mandrel is free to lide the puller is put on and gently takes the mandrel off of the shaft after he exposed end has been clean of ox ide with crosus cloth. Liberal use of Kroil is advised and some may even be ut into the mandrel through the holes (spray Kroil is good here). I once watched Tom Pollard remove a mandrel with a mallet and the sight of the andrel flying off, bounding around the room, and landing at my feet was not a leasant one. The indented outer end was not a pretty sight and the repair of n indented end is not fun. He did not repair the end. Now it is not always necessary to remove the mandrel bearing to affect a repair. ery often the bearing can be made serviceable again by attaching a speed ontrol power drill to the mandrel shaft, applying some heat and penetrating il, and slowly unsticking the bearing. In many cases the bearing is just fine. f a previous owner has used 3-in-1 oil on the bearing, the oil has turned to uperglue. I always start by applying Kroil every hour or so then letting the earing sit overnight. The next day the bearing is many times free with no ther work needed and your machine remains all original. Finding a swollen earing where the lubrication has solidified is not uncommon. Hope my comments help. May all your finds be rare ones, Al You are lucky to have one of those. I think they were made by Lee Kirk who ssed away last year I think. ve _______________________________________________ hono-L mailing list ttp://phono-l.oldcrank.org _______________________________________________ Phono-L mailing list http://phono-l.oldcrank.org
