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Snowden's empty plane seat mocks media pack
By Phil Black, CNN
June 25, 2013 -- Updated 1758 GMT (0158 HKT)
Hunting for Edward Snowden 
STORY HIGHLIGHTS
        * NSA leaker Edward Snowden was believed to be flying from Moscow to 
Havana
        * Dozens of journalists boarded the flight he was believed to be 
traveling on
        * CNN's Phil Black said a row-by-row search after takeoff found no 
trace of Snowden
        * Journalists huddled around the empty seat where he had been expected 
to sit, Black said
(CNN) -- Do I stay or do I go? Almost everyone has 
already boarded the plane, including dozens of journalists. The airport 
staff, including lots of security guards, are now glaring at me.
This is the flight many people believe will carry Edward Snowden from Moscow to 
Havana. But there's no sign of Snowden.
My cameraman is already on the plane. He's supposed to message me if there's a 
confirmed sighting.
The stakes are high. If I get on and Snowden doesn't we're committing to a 
Moscow-Havana round 
trip that will take us a long way from the story.
There are too many 
scenarios and no safe bets. If I don't see him and don't board, he could still 
join the aircraft on the tarmac later. Another journalist is 
already tweeting excitedly about a VIP van parked next to the plane.
I'm constantly on the phone with CNN HQ. The bosses make a decision. There's 
only one way to know for sure. Go for it. 
NSA leaker is on the move  
White House upset about Snowden travels  
U.S. hunt for NSA leaker's location  
We want to know: Where's Ed? 
Read more: Snowden 'free man'
For a story with so few 
confirmed facts, sending us on a flight to Havana, despite the uncertain 
outcome, was considered a valuable insurance policy.
When I step on board I see a frenzy of men with video cameras and flight 
attendants trying to stop them. But there's no Snowden.
So we wait, nervously 
glancing between the door and the tarmac. There is an unusually high 
number of men in police-like uniforms surrounding the plane. A hungry 
media pack is desperately looking for any sign of the man as the clock 
ticks down to our departure time.
The door closes. The plane pushes back. But hope is not dead. He could still be 
whisked out to meet the plane.
That's not what happens. Minutes later the Snowden-less jet is in the air bound 
for Cuba. The 
story remains on the ground somewhere in Moscow.
After takeoff, we do a 
row-by-row search. We look in the galleys, the washrooms. I stick my 
head in the curtained-off rest area for the flight crew. A grey haired 
Russian man stares back with confusion in the dark space. "Izvinite." 
Excuse me. It all confirms what we were already pretty sure of.
Read more: No-show leaves reporters stuck on plane
There's only one area we can't check - the cockpit. It seems unlikely Russian 
authorities or 
Aeroflot would allow Snowden to travel in the secure pointy end of the 
aircraft. But the circumstances of this story fit the general rule I've 
developed through living in Russia. Anything, no matter how logic 
defying, is possible. I keep a close eye on the crew coming and going 
from the cockpit just in case.
Frustrated journalists 
huddle around seat 17a. Its emptiness mocks us. Some earlier reports 
said this was where Snowden would be sitting.
A good part of the 
flight is spent debating theories on Snowden's plans for escape and his 
chances of success. What role Russia and Ecuador? It's all just 
speculation with a little logic thrown in. In other words, like so many 
people around the world right now, we're all just guessing.
But at least we knew he wasn't on the aircraft. Back on earth, my colleagues at 
CNN had no way of being so certain.
Moments before takeoff, 
I'd communicated by phone there was no sign of Snowden. But that didn't 
mean he wasn't on board somewhere. And as we crossed the globe I had no 
way of passing on the results of our detailed search. Neither Aeroflot 
nor the Russian government had confirmed or denied if he was on the 
flight.
So my news organization 
was still tracking its path across Russia, Northern Europe, the 
Atlantic, Canada and the eastern states of America. We even flew very 
close to CNN's world headquarters in Georgia.
Read more: How hunt humiliated U.S.
It was not until the 
aircraft doors opened at our destination and I first felt the sticky, 
warm Havana air that I was able to call in again and confirm 
definitively Snowden had not left Russia on that flight.
Ah Havana. A much 
dreamed of travel destination for this Australian journalist. Those 
dreams would remain unfulfilled. I'd arrived with no accreditation or 
visa. I couldn't legally enter the country.
My Cuban adventure 
involved one hour in the transit lounge desperately negotiating with 
officials to allow me back on the same aircraft for the return flight to Moscow.
No rum. No sweet cigar 
scent. No music. But during my brief time in the soulless transit area 
there were still many incredibly warm Cuban smiles.
The return flight was 
even less eventful. Time was spent writing this account and editing the 
video story of our travels. In total we endured around 30 hours of 
pretty darn comfortable business class travel for little journalistic 
result.
It's not the stuff that 
inspires enormous work satisfaction in my trade. But after arriving back in 
Moscow and while sitting in this city's horrific traffic, one senior CNN editor 
thanked me for making the journey. He said the time 
consuming, sleep depriving, costly act necessary to confirm Snowden 
wasn't on that flight was highly valuable in our coverage of a story 
where basic questions remain unanswered.
What will Edward Snowden do next?


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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