I Meant. Don't, trust me. (the comma missing makes it sound quite different).
Jim On 11/06/2010 15:49, geoff ward wrote:
Yes it is sealed, I would have attempted to adjust the angle of the metal lever that the grub screw comes into contact with, naughty I know!Geoff.On 11 June 2010 15:46, geoff ward <carole.ge...@gmail.com <mailto:carole.ge...@gmail.com>> wrote:Jim, It is the throttle body from the plastic manifold with its existing TPS. The main thing about all this is i just cannot understand why it all runs perfectly when first started. Even after being left to tick over (approx' 900rpm) for 20 Min's it only goes wrong when you actually take it for a drive, when straight away it wont idle anymore, very frustrating! Geoff. On 11 June 2010 15:34, Jim Hearne <j...@quantums.info <mailto:j...@quantums.info>> wrote: As test, if you still have the other throttle body from the plastic manifold with the throttle pot on it. Plug the throttle pot connector into the other throttle body, just leave it sitting on top of the engine and try running it. It won't rev properly as the ecu won't see the throttle position change but it will have the correct idle reading so should idle ok. Jim On 11/06/2010 15:21, geoff ward wrote:-- You received this message because you are subscribed to theHi Jim, It all looks fine, no sign of any damage or tampering. When I say just before it hits the stop, it is no more than 1mm at the most between the end of the little grub screw and the stop. I would be more worried if the stop hit before the butter fly completely closed as this would cause air to leak by would it not. Regards Geoff. On 11 June 2010 15:10, Jim Hearne <j...@quantums.info <mailto:j...@quantums.info>> wrote: That doesn't sound quite right, the stop should hit before the butterfly hits the side. Any sign that somebody has adjusted the throttle stop or bent the stop arm ? Jim On 11/06/2010 14:41, geoff ward wrote:-- You received this message because you are subscribed toBeen out side this afternoon and checked the butterfly. It is completely closed just before the stop is reached. Regards, Geoff. On 11 June 2010 08:49, Jim Hearne <j...@quantums.info <mailto:j...@quantums.info>> wrote: The injector to manifold seals aren't O rings, they are about 15mm dia made of silicone rubber and fit into holes on the manifold. The ends of the injectors then locate into those. I'm sure the plastic inlet manifold and metal manifold have different seals which is why i'm wondering which ones you ended up with. They can also leak if reused, we had that on Matthews car which we found using the hose. The charcol canister is under the boot floor but the solenoid is at the rear of the engine bay attached via a vacumn hose. Jim On 10/06/2010 22:36, geoff ward wrote:-- You received this message because you are subscribedHi Jim, Nothing to report I am afraid. The one thing I was supposed to do, check that the throttle butterfly closes completely, I have not had the opportunity to do. I have had my first few days back at work and it has been to wet in the evenings. Steve must be very busy at work because he has not found time to reply to your previous posting. I will do my best to answer your questions. If the seals you refer to are small round rubber O rings, I do remember them being in place. We used red gasket sealant because we reused the old gaskets from the aluminium manifold or in one case cut a new one from gasket paper, and thought it would be best to use the sealant as well. Did not check this valve, I think, but engine was working OK when in the Escort. Don't recall this canister or the solenoid on the manifold when we stripped the Escort. Regards, Geoff. On 10 June 2010 10:01, Jim Hearne <j...@quantums.info <mailto:j...@quantums.info>> wrote: Any progress ? Jim On 07/06/2010 10:19, geoff ward wrote:-- You received this message because you areHi all and thanks again for all the helpful suggestions. Steve and I have checked and double checked through all that has been suggested, every thing seems to work as it should individually. The idle speed control vale has been thoroughly cleaned again and checked to see that it works, then refitted with a new gasket and that it receives input, electronically, from its plug. Steve has checked all the connections with his testing equipment, it's all beyond me!, and it all works. We have reset the ECU yet again, despite spending all day Saturday trying to get it to run properly, it still has the same problem. Thank you Steve for all the time and effort you have put in so far to try and fix it. So if any of you have any further suggestions, we would be pleased to hear them, as Carole and I are getting worried now, with only one weekend to go before we head to Scotland. Yours hopefully Geoff. On 1 June 2010 22:59, geoff ward <carole.ge...@gmail.com <mailto:carole.ge...@gmail.com>> wrote: Thank you to all for your help and advice, I will do a bit more checking and cleaning of contacts etc tomorrow. The strangest thing,as Steve mentioned in his original post, is that the engine idles perfectly at around 900 - 1000 rpm (according to the XR2 rev counter) when you first start it up. I have followed the method for resetting the ECU 4 times know and it has had good idle speed every time for the first stage of the reset, ie allow to idle for 10 -15 mins (DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE) it only goes all wrong after that! As soon as you start to drive it, that's when it wont idle properly anymore. Carole say thank you all. Regards, Geoff. On 1 June 2010 12:29, Steve Kodz <st...@h4-turbo.co.uk <mailto:st...@h4-turbo.co.uk>> wrote: We're getting a very bad idle with the Zetec in Carole's 2+2. With the idle speed control valve connected from cold it will idle nicely at around 1000rpm, if just left to idle and warm through. However if you rev, or drive that car the best idle to can get is between 2-3,000 rpm, which isn't great :( The car also drives badly, having hesitation and then you fight the engine on the over run. It is a lot better with the ISCV disconnected, but still not great. The idle is still a bit high, being around 1,200 rpm and it still doesn't drive that great. We've tried resetting the ECU to re-program it and Geoff's cleaned all the electrical contact and the ISCV. Any ideas what else needs to be done to get this ready before the HHII? Regards, Steve -- www.h4-turbo.co.uk <http://www.h4-turbo.co.uk/> www.quantumowners.co.uk <http://www.quantumowners.co.uk/> www.quantumcars.co.uk <http://www.quantumcars.co.uk/> www.quantumheritage.co.uk <http://www.quantumheritage.co.uk/> -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Quantum Owners Group" group. To post to this group, send email to quantumowners@googlegroups.com <mailto:quantumowners@googlegroups.com> To unsubscribe from this group, send email to quantumowners-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com <mailto:quantumowners-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com> For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/quantumowners?hl=en IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As Is" basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. 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