hi jim, cheers for the info i think ill restore the whole lot back to standard soon, but for now ill leave it in place for ease.
as for the wires they are all the same size so i asume the rest of the wires that have been added are the same as the origional wire which was fed from the keyswitch, so all should be fine, but cheers for the concern mate, glad sombodys looking out for me :) On May 21, 3:06 pm, "Jim Hearne" <j...@quantums.info> wrote: > Actually, from that description, the relay wasn't originally misconnected. > With the push button there the relay was only energised when the button was > pressed and it then connected the power from the ignition switch starter > terminal through to the starter motor. > No problem as long as you only pressed the button when the key was being > turned. > > Now, you've changed the operation so that the ignition switch starter > terminal turns on the relay and the relay supplys power to the starter > directly from the battery. > No problem with that and it's probably an easier fix than removing the relay > completely. > I say no problem, actually, how thick is the battery feed wire to the relay > ?, is it a decent size ?, before it just powered the relay, now it's > powering the starter solenoid, somewhere around 10 to 20 amps i think, i > forget exactly. > > Jim > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: jin > Sent: Monday, May 21, 2012 7:38 AM > To: Quantum Owners Group > Subject: [Quantum Owners] Re: starter relay trouble 2+2 > > Ahhhhh > > It s all becoming clear > (And you worked this out without even seeing the car; I take my hat > off to you) > > when I bought the car there was a push to make switch under the dash > that was pressed while turning the key to start the car, I couldn t > get on with it so I removed it and joined the wires together and > that s how it stayed, did not had the car long enough by this point to > identify this as a changing point with the battery dying, when I > rewired the car during phase one and two rebuilds I mainly replaced > like with like and didn t question what was there and why, so other > than feeding the switch wire to the relay back through the bulkhead > and placing them in the main loom, > with the power only being made momentarily with the push to make > switch, the relay being wired incorrectly was masked, but what was > happening was it was constantly energised, ive now swapped pin 86 with > pin 30 and all battery drain is now gone, one of the easiest fixes > I ve ever had, > > That s 2 drinks I owe you now mate, cheers > > On May 20, 7:54 pm, Jim Hearne <j...@quantums.info> wrote: > > Ok, it sounds like somebody has fitted a relay in the starter circuit > > for one of 2 reasons. > > Either, to work in conjunction with a alarm or immobiliser. > > Or because they didn't like the starter solenoid being switched directly > > from the ignition switch, other makes of car do often use a relay but > > Fords of this sort of age never did. > > It sounds like now the relay isn't wired up the same as it used to be. > > > One thought is that there are 2 different standard pinouts of relays, > > one pinout has a coil and contact pin swapped compared to the other. > > It could be that the relay has been swapped and now the coil is being > > powered from what should have been the permanent live from the battery. > > > You need to check all 4 pins on the relay with a meter. > > With the relay removed you should find one pin that has power only when > > the ignition switch is in the start position. > > Another wire sounds like it has a battery feed. > > The 3rd is probably earth. > > And the 4th will be the one that goes to the starter. > > > You can either remove the relay completly and link the 1st wire with the > > last one so the ignition switch is connected directly to the starter > > solenoid as normal. > > > Or, make sure that the battery feed is on one side of the contact, the > > starter solenoid is on the other side. > > One side of the coil is connected to the ignition switch and the other > > connected to the earth. > > Then, the ignition switch will switch on the relay and the relay will > > switch on the starter solenoid. > > This will not drain the battery unless the relay is full of water. > > > Personally i'd just remove the relay and link the 2 wires, if they are > > the original wires they will be black with a blue or red stripe. > > The less relays in the engine bay the better. > > > Jim > > > On 20/05/2012 18:59, jin wrote: > > > > Jim, thanks very much for the detailed answer, I appreciate it very > > > much > > > > Unfortunately I think im opening up a big can of worms here, I ll tell > > > you what I know > > > > when I acquired my 2+2 there were 2 relays wired in the engine bay > > > screwed to the inner wheel arch on the driver s side, ive since tidied > > > them up and mounted them in proper relay holders, the one is for the > > > headlight covers using the QSC relay and the other is / was always > > > wired direct to the battery, ever since ive had the car the battery > > > has drained over a few days and ive traced this down to this relay > > > under the bonnet, with the relay fitted and wired to the battery it > > > draws about 140ma, with it removed the residual drain in the car is > > > about 3ma, with this relay removed / main feed to it from the battery > > > removed the car won t start, there s no click or anything from the > > > starter which is why I assumed this was the relay you mention which is > > > part 47 in the manual (great detective work there mate) though with > > > this relay removed the rest of the car operates as normal, everything > > > still works including the radio lights wipers etc. hence why I thought > > > it was a starter relay, I can only assume this is an addition by a > > > previous owner so all I need to do (I assume) is power it from a > > > switched feed instead of permanent live, > > > Out of interest do you know which is the actual relay inside the car > > > that is # 47?, providing this is still there and it is switched I may > > > try to draw power from this, I can only assume a previous keeper has > > > tried to take the strain off the key switch by putting a relay in the > > > circuit? > > > I still don t fancy running wires back through the bulkhead as it s a > > > bit tight, I may consider tapping into the ignition coil / fuel > > > splendid if I have no other option. > > > Any help much appreciated > > > > On May 20, 5:02 pm, Jim Hearne<j...@quantums.info> wrote: > > >> Another thought, are you talking about the ignition (not starter) > > >> relay, > > >> part 47 on Haynes diagram, at least in the version i have. > > >> This relay doesn't have anything to do with the starter, what it does > > >> is > > >> remove some of the load of the ignition switched circuits from the > > >> ignition switch. > > >> The ignition switch supplys power to terminal 86 (from the unfused side > > >> of fuse 8) of the relay and the relay contacts switch battery power > > >> through to the output on pin 87. > > >> It supplys power to things like the heater motor, wipers etc. > > >> This relay is fitted in the fusebox not the engine bay so i'm not sure > > >> how your comments about feeding another wire through the bulkhead > > >> relate > > >> to this. > > > >> Jim > > > >> On 20/05/2012 16:41, jin wrote: > > > >>> hi all > > >>> ive traced my battery drain down to a permanent live starter relay > > >>> where pin # 86 is wired to the battery directly, acording to the Heinz > > >>> manual pin # 86 should be wired to fuse # 8 and the ignition switch so > > >>> this has lead me to believe that this pin should be switched, > > >>> disconecting it certianly stops the battery drain > > >>> keen to keep my car logical id like to wire pin # 86 back to fuse # 8 > > >>> but without the hassle of puttinga wire through the bulkhead to the > > >>> fuse box, > > >>> so my question is, what other switched items are there, preferably in > > >>> the engine bay that also power off fuse #8? > > >>> ill then feed into this to power my starter relay as ford intended > > >>> cheers > > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups > "Quantum Owners Group" group. > To post to this group, send email to quantumowners@googlegroups.com > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to > quantumowners-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com > For more options, visit this group > athttp://groups.google.com/group/quantumowners?hl=en > > IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As Is" > basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum > Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or > in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any > person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or > alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained > within this or related message(s). -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Quantum Owners Group" group. To post to this group, send email to quantumowners@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to quantumowners-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/quantumowners?hl=en IMPORTANT NOTE: All information presented herewith is provided on an "As Is" basis, without warranty or the implication thereof. Neither the Quantum Owners Club nor the individuals associated with the Quantum Owners Club or in the preparation of the above information shall have any liability to any person or entity with respect to liability, loss, or damage caused or alleged to be caused directly or indirectly by the instructions contained within this or related message(s).
