Chris,

For what it is worth, I made two more tests:

- on my system 'M-x R' as well as the suggested-in-the-ESS-documentation
  'M-x ess-version' both work whether or not I have my ~/.emacs -- so
  somehow system path must work

- I have the .el files in the default directory:
  /usr/share/emacs/site-lisp/elpa-src/ess-18.10

- They are also symlinked each into
  /usr/share/emacs25/site-lisp/elpa/ess-18.10/
  which also contains the 'compiled' .elc files

"Works here" and I currently have no suggestion as to what to fix on your end.

Best,  Dirk

-- 
http://dirk.eddelbuettel.com | @eddelbuettel | e...@debian.org

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