Unfortunately, lower gearing can't be the answer. I'm already below the
Rohloff minimum. I can't go lower.


On Sat, Apr 26, 2014 at 8:07 AM, ted <ted.ke...@comcast.net> wrote:

> Anne,
>
> You have a wonderful new bike and one of its unique features is the
> ability to accommodate really big tires. I'd think you would want to make
> sure lower gearing isn't the answer before abandoning that big big rubber.
>
> When I stop on a hill because "It feels like I just can't pedal any more"
> and "I'm breathing pretty darn hard", I find it's because I need to to go
> slower to stay within my capabilities. Sometimes its because I have been
> riding too hard and not pacing myself, sometimes its because my lowest gear
> isn't low enough. When I am stopped by control problems that typically
> means a quick foot down because I was falling over. Sometimes the two are
> related because I am pedaling so slow trying to go slow that I have to push
> so hard on the pedals (and therefore pull on the bars) that it makes it
> harder to control the bike.
>
> Did the gear inches you mentioned in your original post account for the
> actual measured rolling circumference of the rear wheels on  your bikes
> with the pressures you use and loaded the way you ride them? I think the
> main reason big wheels seem harder to push up a hill is because the true
> gear development is larger. If you have, or can borrow, a gps you might
> check how fast you are going up those steep inclines on the Atlanti vs the
> new bike. At walking speeds a very small difference is still a significant
> fraction.
>
> Beware the clarion call of the weight sirens. It's true that "Half a pound
> per wheel isn't nothing", it is a pound per bike. But thats less than a
> full water bottle (at least mine come in at ~1.5lbs). If you and the bike
> are ~150lbs and you save 1lb, that's less than 1 percent. If you are on a
> climb where your effort is all going into raising the weight and you can go
> 2.5mph that savings will net you less than a tenth of a mile per hour.
> However if you go 2.25mph on your atlanti, and the gearing on you new bike
> induces you to go 2.75mph thats a 20% difference in effort.
>
> If you want to look into geometry variations not related to
> steering/control, measure the chain stays and front center. If the bottom
> bracket is relatively further back on one of the bikes that would probably
> translate to a further aft center of gravity (and more propensity to float
> the front end on a steep incline). Or you could just use a bathroom scale
> and some books or blocks of wood to measure your CGs directly.
>
> Hope you get it all sorted out satisfactorily soon
> ted
>
>
> On Saturday, April 26, 2014 7:00:01 AM UTC-7, Anne Paulson wrote:
>
>> Mike, sigh, you're saying what I suspected but didn't want to hear: it's
>> just harder to push those big wheels up a hill. I'm already thinking about
>> trying 2.3" tires, though it does seem silly to buy a bike that takes 3"
>> wheels and then not use them.  In any case, I'm going to replace the heavy
>> tubes with lighter tubes and see what difference that makes. Half a pound
>> per wheel isn't nothing.
>>
>> Rather than sliding forward, which seems to put my body at the wrong
>> attitude toward the pedals, I've been trying leaning forward. I haven't yet
>> become comfortable standing on the steep climbs, but that's the next skill
>> I need to pick up.
>>
>> On Fri, Apr 25, 2014 at 10:50 PM, Mike Schiller 
>> <mikey...@rocketmail.com>wrote:
>>
>>> One thing most people experience when going from 26" wheeled MTB's to
>>> 29" MTB is that they can't climb as well. I've learned that you need to use
>>> an even lower gear to be able to turn the larger circumference wheels.  I
>>> have yet to try a 29+ bike but I can guess it will need an even lower gear.
>>>  On my 29er I run a 20-34 low combination. I'd probably go to a 20-36 on a
>>> 29+ bike. Maybe you can try a smaller chainring up front for your Rohloff
>>> equipped bike?
>>> Of course it takes more power to push the wider and heavier tire,
>>> especially uphill on dirt.. I climb much faster on the same trails on my
>>> cross bike with 35mm tires. Downhill is another story.
>>>
>>> One trick you may not know is to slide forward on your seat a bit on
>>> steep sections. That will take some weight off your rear wheel and allow
>>> you to climb easier.  The WTB saddles even have a little drop on the nose
>>> for that purpose.
>>>
>>> Another option is to try some 2.3" tires. They will be easier to climb
>>> with then your 3" Knards.  You'll lose some downhill traction but maybe
>>> gain a better overall ride.
>>>
>>> Good Luck
>>>
>>> ~mike
>>> Carlsbad Ca.
>>>
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>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> -- Anne Paulson
>>
>> It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride.
>>
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-- 
-- Anne Paulson

It isn't a contest. Enjoy the ride.

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