I posted this to the boblist, but I'd like opinions from those on this list
who don't read the other and who have experience with this problem.

I want to modify my '03 Curt Rivendell to better accommodate chain take-up.
The long Campy 1010s theoretically have enough room to accommodate as much
as a 8 tooth cog or ring difference, but in fact, given the chainstay
length and the dropout position, I've had to file the rear of the dropouts
considerably, to the point where they looks alarmingly thin, in order to
accommodate the even-toothed rings I prefer (46 or 48) and the cogs I
prefer. I don't want to change my gearing even by a few ". Removing a link
puts the axle too close to the front of the dropout, and interferes with
the fender in any case. I can't use a half link with a Dingle cog.

1. Replace the dropout. With a fender, this means using a long horizontal
d/o and, in effect, moving it either forward or backward by, say, 1/4", or
else fabricating a custom, longer dropout.

2. Somehow reinforce the existing dropout: not quite sure how one would do
that.

3. Using an eccentric bb assembly and replacing the d/o with a vertical one.

What have y'all found best in such cases? In particular, what are the
drawbacks of an eccentric? I hear they are prone to creaking.

Do eccentrics need bb shell modification?

How much chain can they take up?

Do they modify your riding position noticeably?

I'm inclined to go with option 1 if I can convince a builder to do it
right. But if eccentrics work well without creaking, requiring much
maintenance, and changing your riding position materially, one of those
might be even better.

-- 
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*************************************
*The point which is the pivot of the norm is the motionless center of a
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