You may be enjoying a special case. Goatheads, horrible as they are,
make a small clean puncture that is exactly what Orange Seal is best at
sealing. The holes that are made in the tire are unlikely to cut across
large areas of fabric. If you rode on surfaces that instead looked or
acted as though they were made like this
Orange Seal probably wouldn't work at all.
On 03/23/2016 02:23 PM, Patrick Moore wrote:
Step 1: remove Marathons.
Step 2: Install paper thin and paper light Compass equivalents.
Step 3: Insert 2 to 4 oz, depending on tire volume, of Orange Seal
into your tubes.
Step 3: Rejoice in the benefits and pleasures of both worlds.
Patrick Moore, who repeats /ad nauseam/ that he rides
lighter-than-Compass Furious Freds in goathadland thanks to Orange Seal.
Actually, I rode unprotected Big Apples in through goathead patches,
and they /rarely/ punctured, and rode pretty well for 900 gram (60 X
622) tires.
On Wed, Mar 23, 2016 at 8:12 AM, John A. Bennett <jabin...@gmail.com
<mailto:jabin...@gmail.com>> wrote:
I've had the same pair(s) of Schwalbe Marathons on my Saluki and
Atlantis for over 5 years. Never had a flat. Never had a tire fail.
They feel fine over every surface, and I don't live in fear of
potholes, nails, pointy rocks, broken glass, or switchblades.
To me, /that's/ the smoothest ride of all.
On Wednesday, March 23, 2016 at 6:52:15 AM UTC-7, Tim Gavin wrote:
From my experience:
Solid rubber tire = 0
Super cheapo heavy tire (aka stock tires on box-store bikes) = 1
Studded, heavy (Nokian W160) = 2
Studded, huge (Dillinger 5) = 3
Huge (Ground Control 4.6) = 4
Armored, heavy (Schwalbe Marathon) = 5
Armored (Pasela PT/TG) = 6
Stout (Jack Brown, Ruffy Tuffy) = 7
Light (Super Moto, ITS MK2) = 8
Supple (Thunder Burt, Compass, Grand Bois, Pari-Moto) = 9
And I reserve 10 for those hand-sewn 320 tpi tubulars, though
I've never ridden them.
On this scale, each increment in rating indicates a noticeable
difference in ride quality and rolling resistance. I.e., if I
ride a "7" and an "8" back to back, I'll say "nice!". If I
ride a "7" and a "9" back to back, I'll say "wow!".
-Tim
On Tue, Mar 22, 2016 at 5:27 PM, ian m <darkg...@gmail.com> wrote:
Hopefully not beating a dying horse here, but I am
confused by how this topic is often discussed. With how BQ
and Compass/Grand Bois talk about their tires it seems as
though it's a binary opposition, right? Supple tires vs.
non-supple tires, new tire technology vs. old tires, their
tires vs. the rest. But what is even being discussed when
we talk about suppleness? Am I confused in thinking that
there has long been differing levels of casing quality
with TPI being a good indicator of suppleness (and why
doesn't Compass advertise the TPI on their tires)?
It seems to me that it's more of a continuum of supple,
from maybe the steel belted kevlar enforced urban assault
Schwalbe to the hand sewn from the finest silk undies race
only FMBs. In that continuum you have your clincher and
your tubular, your wire bead and folding bead, your 120TPI
and your puncture-proof belt. But where in the continuum
are they?
I'm not interested in performance and am a proud unracer.
My only Riv bike is a Clem and I love it. But I know and
appreciate quality bicycle components and, as they say, am
too poor to buy cheap things. While the rising interest in
wide tires in the performance bicycling world will mean
more options for us balloon bikers, that also means more
companies making all sorts of unverifiable claims about
their tires. I remember when I switched from Schwalbe
Delta Cruisers to Clement 120TPI USH tires on a previous
touring bike. I was not let down. But would I notice the
same change if I went from the light Jack Browns on my SS
to Compass tires? I would like to upgrade from the bottom
of the line wire bead Schwalbe's currently on my Clem
(mostly because they have a wobble in the bead) to a
lighter "all road" 650b. How does one compare the
supple-itude?
- Perpetually Confused by Marketing
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