My view of BBs revolves around correct dimensions, function and service. 
Those that are the correct spindle length and permit snug but safe 
clearance of stays, have accurate fit of tapers with the crank arms never 
used odd interface BBs and don't abide with external bearings and their 
cranks), stay installed and last under my use get my vote. My MB-0 made me 
a Mavic BB fan and put them in my bikes before the cartridge units hit the 
market.

My Rambouillet started with a TA Zephyr triple on a Phil, more recently I 
dropped the inner ring, spacers and hardware to run as a wide double and 
needed a shorter spindle. At nearly the same time I was dong a post-winter 
cleaning of my commuter and its two year-old Phil's bearings were trashed. 
In response to these collective observations of service life and cost to 
refurbish, I put an SKF for the Ram and threw an appropriate size Shimano 
UN-51 into the commuter. The 14 year-old Phil not regularly operated in the 
winter slop was smooth as butter.

I never got around to dropping $46 plus cross country postage to rebuild 
the Phil and it sits in my tool box with its much older, still serviceable 
kin, the commuter got demoted in my stable, its replacement and OEM UN-55 
that remains serviceable after two winters. 

I agree with Jan Heine that winter differentiates the durability of 
cartridge bearing vs sealed BB units. No snow/slush service of my SKF, so I 
cannot say definitively that it is my new all-around answer, but I can add 
that I didn't have a very good front fender/flap situation during the 
short-lived Phil use on the commuter compared to my current set up which 
may be prolonging the garden variety unit's service. 

Keeping the spray and slop off your bottom bracket is the first step, a 
sealed unit is the next if your objective is a BB that keeps working. 

Andy Cheatham
Pittsburgh





On Wednesday, April 27, 2016 at 4:27:49 PM UTC-4, dstein wrote:
>
> Why are more expensive bottom brackets more expensive? What do you gain? 
> Is it just durability? Or is there any sort of performance gain (ie, does 
> it roll smoother, faster, etc)?
>
> I've worked on most bike parts now minus the bottom bracket and headset. 
> About to change cranks on my hunqapillar form the Sugino triple (with a 107 
> or 110 bb) to a White Industries Eno (with a 113 bb). Trying to figure out 
> if I go w/ the $40 bb on Riv's site? Or a White Industries or something 
> similar? This bike will see 500-1000 miles a year on dirt and some mud. And 
> support the occasional overnighter.
>

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