Ah...whoops. Yup, sometimes things get lost in translation. Gotcha... ;-) On Mon, May 2, 2016 at 4:53 PM, Brian Campbell <bdcampbel...@gmail.com> wrote:
> I think you missed my winky eye emoticon. It was a joke about your Phil > Wood experience...ahh the interweb.... > > On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 2:00:07 PM UTC-4, Mark Reimer wrote: >> >> Nope. You must've missed my comment. Phil wood bearings are for sunny >> California. My Phil BB and hub bearings never last more than a winter. They >> are not suitable for cold and wet climates. And don't get me started on >> their free hubs hah >> >> On May 2, 2016, at 12:48 PM, Brian Campbell <bdcamp...@gmail.com> wrote: >> >> Phil Wood! ;-) >> >> On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 1:27:48 PM UTC-4, Mark Reimer wrote: >>> >>> Haha! I'm terribly curious how you'll determine who qualifies as a >>> "newbie with romantic/retro sensibilities but no experience with this kind >>> of BB." >>> >>> You know, up till this moment I had zero interest in cup and cone bb's, >>> and never would imagine considering going back to one. maybe that's because >>> I'm not aware of a quality option out there. But given the fact that my >>> environment destroys bearings in every BB I've tried, including Phil Wood, >>> within a season, maybe a cup and cone would be exactly what I need. >>> Self-serviceable with nothing but a couple special wrenches and a tube of >>> grease. Hmmm.... >>> >>> Say Grant - who will be manufacturing these BB's? >>> >>> On Sunday, May 1, 2016 at 8:32:07 PM UTC-5, Grant @ Rivendell wrote: >>>> >>>> BB spindle length: >>>> >>>> It's always safe and usually best to use the bb the crank maker >>>> recommends, or (more to the point) a dimensional equivalent. I'm not going >>>> to address taper here, just quick notes about length. It comes down to >>>> chainline, which has nothing to do with the chain. Almost everything >>>> anybody could possibly say about CL has already been said by Sheldon on his >>>> site, but I don't remember whether he addressed derailers there, so I will >>>> fast here. Chainline is how far out from the center of the seat tube the >>>> middle ring on a triple sits, or the midpoint between two rings on a double >>>> sits. >>>> >>>> There are two common chainlines, I mean three: >>>> >>>> 43 or 43.5mm (I forget)--for road doubles >>>> 47.5mm -- for road triples and hybrid-like bikes. >>>> 50.5 or 51(I forget) -- for mtn bikes >>>> >>>> "For" means "typical," not "the only way." >>>> But what it means is that mtn bike front derailers can reach farther >>>> out and can't drag in as close as road front derailers. >>>> >>>> Example: If you put a Sugino or Silver crank on a 110mm bb spindle, the >>>> chainline will be 47.5, and an XT or any other mtn front derailer will be >>>> able to shift to the big ring, but not to the small one. To fix that, you >>>> put a 113mm bb spindle, which changes the CL from 47.5 to 50.5, and it all >>>> works. >>>> >>>> There is no perfect correlation bwt Q-Factor and CL. In general, mtn >>>> cranks are for bow-legged cowboys and they have high Q's, but it's easy to >>>> design and make great mtn cranks with mtn bike CLs and low-Q's (under >>>> 163?). The mtn crank makers don't generally do that, though, because then >>>> their cranks won't fit onto lots of expensive and prestigious bikes that >>>> have chainstays that stick out too far in the wrong spots and so require >>>> higher Q-Factors. >>>> >>>> This doesn't address durability, but it's rare to hear of $40 bb's >>>> crapping out. Not unheard of, but it's not unheard of at any price, either. >>>> We are going to stock an ol' cup-and-cone style BB in ass't lengths >>>> sometime this year. It will cost more and we'll refuse to sell it to -- how >>>> do I best say this? -- a "newbie with romantic/retro sensibilities but no >>>> experience with this kind of BB." We certainly won't quit selling the $40 >>>> Shimano bbs, which are so good. What we will do, when it all happens, is >>>> extol the theoretical virtues of the old kind...which, given the reliabiliy >>>> of the new kind, are undeniable, but may not matter. >>>> G >>>> >>>> On Wednesday, April 27, 2016 at 1:27:49 PM UTC-7, dstein wrote: >>>>> >>>>> Why are more expensive bottom brackets more expensive? What do you >>>>> gain? Is it just durability? Or is there any sort of performance gain (ie, >>>>> does it roll smoother, faster, etc)? >>>>> >>>>> I've worked on most bike parts now minus the bottom bracket and >>>>> headset. About to change cranks on my hunqapillar form the Sugino triple >>>>> (with a 107 or 110 bb) to a White Industries Eno (with a 113 bb). Trying >>>>> to >>>>> figure out if I go w/ the $40 bb on Riv's site? Or a White Industries or >>>>> something similar? This bike will see 500-1000 miles a year on dirt and >>>>> some mud. And support the occasional overnighter. >>>>> >>>> -- >> You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the >> Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. >> To unsubscribe from this topic, visit >> https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/uQgg6v9B0tk/unsubscribe >> . >> To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to >> rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com. >> To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com. >> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. >> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. >> >> -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the > Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. > To unsubscribe from this topic, visit > https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/uQgg6v9B0tk/unsubscribe > . > To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to > rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. > Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. 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