Thanks for the explanation on CL, derailers and Q factor Grant. Quite helpful.
I'm one of those who doesn't qualify for that "old-school" BB, not yet anyway... :-) René On Monday, May 2, 2016, Mark Reimer <marknrei...@gmail.com> wrote: > Ah...whoops. Yup, sometimes things get lost in translation. Gotcha... ;-) > > On Mon, May 2, 2016 at 4:53 PM, Brian Campbell <bdcampbel...@gmail.com > <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','bdcampbel...@gmail.com');>> wrote: > >> I think you missed my winky eye emoticon. It was a joke about your Phil >> Wood experience...ahh the interweb.... >> >> On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 2:00:07 PM UTC-4, Mark Reimer wrote: >>> >>> Nope. You must've missed my comment. Phil wood bearings are for sunny >>> California. My Phil BB and hub bearings never last more than a winter. They >>> are not suitable for cold and wet climates. And don't get me started on >>> their free hubs hah >>> >>> On May 2, 2016, at 12:48 PM, Brian Campbell <bdcamp...@gmail.com> wrote: >>> >>> Phil Wood! ;-) >>> >>> On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 1:27:48 PM UTC-4, Mark Reimer wrote: >>>> >>>> Haha! I'm terribly curious how you'll determine who qualifies as a >>>> "newbie with romantic/retro sensibilities but no experience with this kind >>>> of BB." >>>> >>>> You know, up till this moment I had zero interest in cup and cone bb's, >>>> and never would imagine considering going back to one. maybe that's because >>>> I'm not aware of a quality option out there. But given the fact that my >>>> environment destroys bearings in every BB I've tried, including Phil Wood, >>>> within a season, maybe a cup and cone would be exactly what I need. >>>> Self-serviceable with nothing but a couple special wrenches and a tube of >>>> grease. Hmmm.... >>>> >>>> Say Grant - who will be manufacturing these BB's? >>>> >>>> On Sunday, May 1, 2016 at 8:32:07 PM UTC-5, Grant @ Rivendell wrote: >>>>> >>>>> BB spindle length: >>>>> >>>>> It's always safe and usually best to use the bb the crank maker >>>>> recommends, or (more to the point) a dimensional equivalent. I'm not going >>>>> to address taper here, just quick notes about length. It comes down to >>>>> chainline, which has nothing to do with the chain. Almost everything >>>>> anybody could possibly say about CL has already been said by Sheldon on >>>>> his >>>>> site, but I don't remember whether he addressed derailers there, so I will >>>>> fast here. Chainline is how far out from the center of the seat tube the >>>>> middle ring on a triple sits, or the midpoint between two rings on a >>>>> double >>>>> sits. >>>>> >>>>> There are two common chainlines, I mean three: >>>>> >>>>> 43 or 43.5mm (I forget)--for road doubles >>>>> 47.5mm -- for road triples and hybrid-like bikes. >>>>> 50.5 or 51(I forget) -- for mtn bikes >>>>> >>>>> "For" means "typical," not "the only way." >>>>> But what it means is that mtn bike front derailers can reach farther >>>>> out and can't drag in as close as road front derailers. >>>>> >>>>> Example: If you put a Sugino or Silver crank on a 110mm bb spindle, >>>>> the chainline will be 47.5, and an XT or any other mtn front derailer will >>>>> be able to shift to the big ring, but not to the small one. To fix that, >>>>> you put a 113mm bb spindle, which changes the CL from 47.5 to 50.5, and it >>>>> all works. >>>>> >>>>> There is no perfect correlation bwt Q-Factor and CL. In general, mtn >>>>> cranks are for bow-legged cowboys and they have high Q's, but it's easy to >>>>> design and make great mtn cranks with mtn bike CLs and low-Q's (under >>>>> 163?). The mtn crank makers don't generally do that, though, because then >>>>> their cranks won't fit onto lots of expensive and prestigious bikes that >>>>> have chainstays that stick out too far in the wrong spots and so require >>>>> higher Q-Factors. >>>>> >>>>> This doesn't address durability, but it's rare to hear of $40 bb's >>>>> crapping out. Not unheard of, but it's not unheard of at any price, >>>>> either. >>>>> We are going to stock an ol' cup-and-cone style BB in ass't lengths >>>>> sometime this year. It will cost more and we'll refuse to sell it to -- >>>>> how >>>>> do I best say this? -- a "newbie with romantic/retro sensibilities but no >>>>> experience with this kind of BB." We certainly won't quit selling the $40 >>>>> Shimano bbs, which are so good. What we will do, when it all happens, is >>>>> extol the theoretical virtues of the old kind...which, given the >>>>> reliabiliy >>>>> of the new kind, are undeniable, but may not matter. >>>>> G >>>>> >>>>> On Wednesday, April 27, 2016 at 1:27:49 PM UTC-7, dstein wrote: >>>>>> >>>>>> Why are more expensive bottom brackets more expensive? What do you >>>>>> gain? Is it just durability? Or is there any sort of performance gain >>>>>> (ie, >>>>>> does it roll smoother, faster, etc)? >>>>>> >>>>>> I've worked on most bike parts now minus the bottom bracket and >>>>>> headset. About to change cranks on my hunqapillar form the Sugino triple >>>>>> (with a 107 or 110 bb) to a White Industries Eno (with a 113 bb). Trying >>>>>> to >>>>>> figure out if I go w/ the $40 bb on Riv's site? Or a White Industries or >>>>>> something similar? This bike will see 500-1000 miles a year on dirt and >>>>>> some mud. 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