On 08/25/2016 04:58 PM, René Sterental wrote:
Spring tension? What would that have to do with how well the brakes
stop the bike? Besides, spring tension is the same between the front
and rear brakes.
Well, as a general statement I am not sure, but I do know this one thing
from personal experience: if you want to really mess up a Paul Racer
centerpull and make it so it is completely useless as a brake, mess up
the spring tension. Last time I had my VO Randonneur in to have the
brake pads changed, a ham-fisted mechanic decided to play with the
spring tension and literally made the brake useless as a brake. It's a
good thing it's only a couple of miles to the bike shop... and an even
better thing that the head mechanic had the problem fixed in just a
minute or two.
My plan is this:
- First try lowering the yoke as low as it will go on the Neo-Retros.
I can do it since the Nitto Campee front rack I have doesn't have the
strut connecting it to the fork crown. Note the difference if there is
any.
- Swap the Neo-Retros for the other set of Touring brakes, now that I
have the low yoke. Note the difference
- Since I also have a set of MiniMotos I bought to see if they fit on
another bike, I may try them as well, but that would mean a potential
recabling which I'm not sure I want to do. I've also been advised that
they may not fit well with the 50mm fenders, so perhaps I'll just see
how they fit first, before setting them up. It was suggested that if I
wanted the ultimate braking power, I try the Motolites, although
they'd require a new set of V-brake levers, which I'm not so hot on.
Based on all my new learnings, I believe the Touring front and rear
will take care of my "problem".
I'd still want to know why the wide-profile cantilever brakes have
persisted for so long...
Here's some of what Paul says about the Neo retro:
/Note: These are very powerful brakes and have a tendency to overpower
thin tubed frames (in any material). For none-too-stout frames and
forks we recommend our //Touring Canti
<http://paulcomp.com//shop/components/touring-cantilever/>//. Also,
the arms stick out a lot! For smaller frames, bikes with bags, and
people with large feet there can be some interference problems, in
which case the Touring Canti might be more appropriate./
Clearly they are of the opinion that the Neo retro is the more powerful
of the two, and honestly after all this time you'd think they'd know
their own products.
René
On Thu, Aug 25, 2016 at 12:29 PM, Conway Bennett
<captainconwaybenn...@gmail.com
<mailto:captainconwaybenn...@gmail.com>> wrote:
I'd read the black mountain cycles article on the topic. Also I
believe I read on the Paul site that for neo retros 2-3" yoke
height is good enough. I didn't read thru all the posts but have
you adjusted spring tension yet?
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