Even with puny 35mm Schwalbe Supremes and SKS 45mm fenders, I can get
toe strike on my 58cm Atlantis if I try hard enough on start-up.  This
is because sometimes my (size 12) foot placement on Grip Kings is
accidentally too far forward initially on start-up.

But its not a major issue for me. Like cyclofiend is saying, with a
little practice its easily avoidable.

I also had 29 x 2.1 Nanoraptors on the Atlantis for a time, and
definitely had to be more conscious of it while riding the slow twisty
semi-technical stuff. But it was still fun and not a show-stopper.

Here's a pic of it with the Nanoraptors on:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/southgatephotos/4033477230

Cutting it close, but probably not an issue if i used cleats.





On Feb 1, 1:14 pm, CycloFiend <cyclofi...@earthlink.net> wrote:
> on 2/1/10 6:26 AM, Allingham II, Thomas J at thomas.alling...@skadden.com
> wrote:
>
> Am I right (or, in the alternative, completely misguided) in thinking that
> TCO should not be a problem if you're not clipped in?  (I suppose maybe
> that's why the problem is called "toe clip overlap.")
>
> Just for reference sake, it's important to define the following:
>
> "Clipped In" means using some sort of cleated interface to secure your shoes
> and pedals - SPD, TIME, LOOK, etc...
>
> "Clipless" are the type of pedals that you clip into as above. It is an
> honorable semantic effort to shift this phrase to "Clip in".  Even the
> snowboarders use the phrase "Click-in binding"...
>
> "Toe Clips" are the cages that extend off the front of the pedal.  Once upon
> a time, we nailed cleats to the bottom of our cycling shoes, so that the
> rear lip of the pedal cage secured the shoe. Then we tightened down the toe
> straps. Then we were "clipped in".  We were young and foolish.
>
> Slipping a pair of cycling or street shoes into a Toe Clip is "using toe
> clips"
>
> All-righty then...
>
> One of the quickest ways to get into trouble is to get your foot _inside_ of
> the front wheel when stopped or at low speeds.  Really, that's about the
> only time it can happen, because you really shouldn't be turning the bars
> that much unless you are coming down Repack on a Klunker in about 1978 or
> thereabouts.
>
> The best way to compound the problem is to be riding a fixed gear, because,
> obviously, you can't backpedal and the momentum of the bicycle is driving
> your foot.  
>
> The first time I did this (on my Dawes commuter, which has toe clips and
> fenders), I very luckily dropped my heel, which pointed my toe up, creating
> plenty of room for the wheel to swing back to center.  Then, I seriously
> panicked and froze up.  Luckily, the freezing took place after the fact, and
> as such did not end catastrophically.
>
> I'm a great believer in practicing for disaster, and have since played with
> this condition a bit to create some muscle memory for the future.
>
> Depending upon the tension in your legs, the position of your foot, you can
> definitely compound the problem if your reaction is to push down harder.
> It's really a weird feeling when it happens, and your instinctive reaction
> may not be correct.
>
> It's not a bad idea to play with the clearances, so you know beforehand what
> they are. Sitting stationary on the bike (with a spotter - some of the
> hardest falls I've had were at 0 mph...) in a doorframe or next to some
> support, set your foot forward and move the bars to create the problem.
>
> - Jim
>
> --
> Jim Edgar
> cyclofi...@earthlink.net
>
> "One Cog - Zero Excuses" L/S T-shirt - Now 
> availablehttp://www.cyclofiend.com/stuff
>
> Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries -http://www.cyclofiend.com
> Current Classics - Cross Bikes
> Singlespeed - Working Bikes
>
> Send In Your Photos! - Here's how:http://www.cyclofiend.com/guidelines

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