On Tuesday, October 23, 2018 at 10:03:59 AM UTC-7, iamkeith wrote: > Don't forget that you'd need a long pre-tension cap bolt to reach the star > nut. Don't cheap out on the grade of that, or it could shear. > > I don't believe that's true. It's entirely fine to use a weaker pre-tension cap bolt in a threadless setup. That bolt serves only to pre-tension the headset (with very light torque), before the stem's steerer clamp bolt locks in the setting. Once the steerer clamp bolt is tightened, one can even take off the pre-tension cap bolt entirely. As a real life example, I happened to have a few aluminum M6x40 bolts and they worked fine for years as pre-tension cap bolts.
Back to the OP's question, if I remember correctly, the advice about leaving a silver of spacer on top of the stem is to 1. ensure the headset can be preloaded correctly, and more importantly, 2. the stem clamps onto a relatively strong part of the steerer and does not pinch the end. For the stem that the OP identified, I can't help but wonder if, additionally, the stem designers intended the steerer to reinforce the "quill", meaning overlap is expected. In any case, since stems are critical components of a bicycle with dire consequences for failure, if it were me, I'll ensure I have maximal overlap (meaning maybe cut steerer to be 5mm below top of stem), or ask the seller for more info. ** All bets are off for carbon steerers, however. Nevertheless, this being the Riv forum, I certainly hope that's not a topic we should entertain! ;)* > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
