Reminds me a lot of the 18 months I spent on Okinawa back in the late 
70's.  I rode all over that island on my bike.  Much of the scenery looks 
similar to your pictures, minus the monkeys.

Thank you for sharing.

On Saturday, April 3, 2021 at 8:06:41 AM UTC-7 Jeffrey Arita wrote:

> John,
>
> Thank you for this!  Your write-up and photos painted an idyllic world.  
> It looked almost like another planet.  What a way to explore.  It will 
> definitely be on our bucket list.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Jeff
> Claremont, CA USA
>
> On Saturday, April 3, 2021 at 5:48:34 AM UTC-7 John Rinker wrote:
>
>> I am grateful to live, teach and ramble around on my bicycle in Japan. 
>> For more than 30 years my career as an International school teacher has 
>> landed me in some beautiful, unique places and Japan is certainly high on 
>> my list of ‘Favorite Places I Have Pitched My Tent’. Now, Yakushima Island 
>> in South-Western Japan is near the top of my list of most beautiful places 
>> I’ve ever ridden a bicycle.
>>
>> In Japan, Yakushima is well known but infrequently visited owing to its 
>> remoteness. It boasts the greatest yearly rainfall in the country and is 
>> home to some of the oldest living trees on the planet. Yaku-sugi, or the 
>> cedars *(cryptomeria)* of Yakushima stand in ancient rainforests and the 
>> oldest, Jomon-sugi, is estimated to be between 2800-7200 years old. Others, 
>> Yoyoi-sugi, Bandai-sugi, and Yamato-sugi are 3000 years old. As the typical 
>> life expectancy of cedar is as much as 500 years old, even the many 
>> 1000-year-old cedars on the island are strange and wonderful anomalies. 
>>
>> In stark contrast to Yakushima Island, a World Natural Heritage site, 
>> Japan’s Shinkansen, or high-speed train, is a marvel of modern 
>> transportation technology. With my bike in a bag, I would travel the first 
>> 1400 kilometers of my journey in about 6 hours so I could spend the next 5 
>> days meandering mountain roads for 160 or so kilometers. 
>>
>> After a couple of nights in the port of Kagoshima and a day cycling 
>> around Sakura-Jima, the most active volcano in Japan, I boarded the ferry 
>> as a cloud of ash spewed across the bay from one of the volcano’s two 
>> vents. Four and a half hours of rough seas later, I rolled off the ferry 
>> buffeted by 40km/h winds as the peaks of Yakushima were shrouded in mist 
>> above me. A strategic left turn put the winds at my back and me on a 
>> clockwise route around the island. Only a few kilometers later I cruised 
>> into an empty campsite on a rocky beach and pitched my tent. Across the 
>> road, I found a small restaurant the served red-curry ramen with smoked 
>> Yakushima venison and a delicious pale ale brewed on the island by Catch 
>> Brewery. My plans for the rest of the day were sealed! 
>>
>> The winds abated during the night and the next morning I awoke to a 
>> glorious sunrise over the East China Sea. After coffee, I rode up into the 
>> mountains towards the Shiratani Unsuikyo to hike the ravine in search of 
>> the famed Yaku-sugi. Once off the main trail, the rugged path winds through 
>> moss-covered boulders and thick forest where frequent crossings of pristine 
>> mountain streams eventually lead to the huge, ancient cedar trees. The 
>> first one I came to was Yoyoi-sugi, a 3000-year-old giant perched on a 
>> steep slope. Eight meters in girth at chest height, Yoyo-sugi’s upper 
>> branches rise out of the forest like a great, skeletal hand clawing for the 
>> sky. One after another, the humongous, gnarled trunks of these ancient 
>> trees scattered throughout the forest were truly awe-inspiring. These and 
>> the forest in which they dwell make it abundantly clear why Hayao 
>> Miyazaki’s supreme anime, *Princess Mononoke *could be set in no place 
>> other than in this magical realm.
>>
>> Back on my bike, the 12 kilometers and 600 meters of elevation were 
>> behind me in about 15 minutes and I was back at sea-level and headed toward 
>> the onsen town of Onoaida. A mountainous landscape and 10 meters of 
>> rainfall a year generate a great deal of water flowing to the sea. I spent 
>> much of my time on the island crossing bridges and scrambling over granite 
>> boulders to either swim in crystal mountain rivers or to try my hand at 
>> tenkara, Japanese-style fly fishing. The result was a slow circumnavigation 
>> of the island with plenty of time lounging in beautiful spots next to 
>> flowing water and warming myself on slabs of igneous rock. 
>>
>> The western side of the island is considerably drier, more secluded, and 
>> covered in a thick tropical forest. Much of it is traversed by a 
>> single-lane mountain road that closes between 5 pm and 7 am each day due to 
>> the danger of navigating it in the dark. These factors create a quiet 
>> environment for the island’s resident macaques and deer. On this side of 
>> the island, I often pedaled by troops of macaques lazily grooming each 
>> other along the roadside or browsing in trees overhanging the tarmac while 
>> nearby the small Yakushima deer grazed with little concern for a guy on a 
>> bike.
>>
>> Yakushima is a small island, only 120 or so kilometers around, and can 
>> easily be ridden in a day. But, why one would travel to this stunning 
>> island and not stretch a bicycle journey into days (even weeks) is beyond 
>> me. I was on the island for only five days and, while this was ample time 
>> for me to pedal slowly and swim often, there’s so much I am pining to go 
>> back to see. There are plenty of small roads that climb partway into the 
>> interior and, of course, there are hiking trails that criss-cross the more 
>> remote and higher elevations. As I said, I am grateful to live in Japan. 
>> Yakushima calls my name, and I’ll definitely roll through that ancient 
>> landscape again.
>>
>> If you’re interested, here’s a link to my Gaiaps tracks and photos: 
>>
>> Yakushima/Sakurajima Tracks 
>> <https://www.gaiagps.com/datasummary/folder/a03b7e68-14e7-4fad-9d77-355a76096b5d/?layer=MapBoxStreetsHD>
>>
>

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