Dave:
The nylock nut bonding to the bolt sounds like an unlikely phenomenon to me. I
just got an Atlantis F/F with same binder bolt set-up and mine turned normally.
I wonder if yours was cross threaded because the nut got set cock-eyed in its
binder seat when married to bolt. I can't see how nylon would bond to a bolt
shaft as to not be removable as you tried. Blue locktite on a standard not is
an option, but I wouldn't be opposed to trying a nylock nut again.
Also, chasing threads can be assisted by using a little lubrication of some
sort: anti seeze/thread lube compound, Sea Foam, WD-40, most any lube. Even
motor oil, not that I would given other options.
Another nifty trick is to start chasing from the opposite side you would
typically introduce the bolt. For example on drop out eyelets start from the
inboard wheel side. That way if something binds or goes a little wrong you
could have second attempt by trying from the outboard wheel side. There have
been times when I've had threads start to bugger/bind for one reason or another
and it's a simple way to clean things back up by running a bolt through from
other side. A second shot at same task, if you will. Assuming it's possible,
for example one wouldn't be able to do this on a bottom bracket type scenario
since there isn't access from the opposite side.
I'm probably sharing what you already know all well. Just sharing my
experiences that have helped me out of a pickle. Tips from friends are always
welcome. Even If I already know them...
Scott
On Friday, November 18, 2022 at 06:31:17 AM MST, DavidP
<dphil...@gmail.com> wrote:
An update on my build experience so far - the derailleur hanger on my frame
was fine, no adjustment to alignment needed. No chasing needed on the hanger
threads either. The bottom bracket threads were also fine and the cups threaded
in smoothly. The most time consuming part so far has been chasing the threads
on the fork crown braze-ons - it took a while to get them cleaned out and
accept a screw smoothly. I've never acquired chasing taps so I've always just
used a steel screw, working it in and out until the threads are clear. I've
seen thread clearing tools made using a sacrificial screw with a slot cut along
the length of the threads to allow material to clear while threading it, which
probably would've made it go faster.
Out of the box, I noticed the seat collar binder bolt was oddly resistant to
turn in either direction; it took an unusual amount of force to get it to
tighten and the post still had play. Then while trying to loosen the bolt it
snapped in the middle of the shaft. After taking the two halves of the bolt
out, I found the nylock nut was bound to the end of the bolt and I was unable
to turn it loose using vice grips and a socket wrench. I replaced the bolt with
a new stainless M6 x 20mm and a standard, non-locking, M6 nut (with some blue
loctite on the bolt). Now everything tightens up (and loosens again) as
expected.
-Dave
On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 4:20:47 PM UTC-5 lconley wrote:
I got some Shimano levers for my internal gear bikes from Peter White that have
two position cable attachments for normal or linear brakes. The right side
lever has an integrated thumb shifter for the 8 speed Shimano hub. I don't know
if a non-integrated right lever exists.
The Paul Cross-Lever can also be used with either style of brake by
repositioning the pivot pin.
Laing
On Wednesday, November 16, 2022 at 2:45:05 PM UTC-5 aeroperf wrote:
Thanks, Scott. That helps a lot.
I’m going for Tektro linear pull V-brakes, but no decision on levers yet.
I like the adjustable pull on those levers, though. I hadn’t run into that
before.
I’m not trying to hijack this thread, but “Who is getting a Platypus”? implies
“and how are you going to build it up?”
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