Looks fantastic! I love the pink with it. Great call

On Tuesday, August 15, 2023 at 7:27:37 PM UTC-4 Chester wrote:

> Took me a while to get around to ordering new handlebars and then took me 
> a while to get around to swapping the bars, then a while to commit to 
> wrapping and another while to take a few pictures.
>
> A few here and below:
>
> https://imgur.com/a/FgPzkYf
>
> Raised the stem up to just about as high as it can go without 
> precipitating the need to re-do the front brake cable. So the riding 
> position is quite upright and comfortable but because the stem is a short 
> 50mm, the bar ends only come back roughly level with the stem bolt and so 
> position doesn't feel cruiser-upright. Riding on the forward bends or brake 
> hoods makes it feel sporty.
>
> I wouldn't have predicted that I'd end up with brakes positioned as they 
> are, but I've got them set a good deal less "inward" and more toward the 
> apex of the forward bends than the Bridgestone orthodoxy 
> <https://web.stanford.edu/~dru/moustache.html>. For me, the levers are in 
> a good position when I'm in the forward bends, since the more natural spot 
> for me feels like slightly to the outside rather than straight forward. And 
> having them less inward makes it really quick and natural to inch my hands 
> up slightly from the bar ends to catch the end of the levers. And it's even 
> pretty close and natural when I'm on the bar ends to get my left thumb over 
> to the bell where it is. The ends are also really nice for sprinting and 
> climbing. 
>
> I can totally see why some people arrange so the bar ends are the primary 
> hand position, with flat-bar-style or reverse levers positioned for that. 
> It's definitely the most relaxed position, but I wanted brakes placed for 
> least non-aero position and also to enable the furthest forward brake hood 
> position.
>
> Because of the handlebar bag, I lose the position flanking the stem, which 
> is what I rode in the most when I had mustache bars on a couple of other 
> bikes. But that was to get a more upright cruising position, with lower and 
> longer stems, and with the stem how it is now, all positions are various 
> grades of chill.
>
> I had mentally agonized a bunch over shift lever positions. It would be 
> nice to make them bar-ends, but the more I ride this bike, the more I'm 
> finding that downtube levers being less accessible makes me shift less in a 
> good way. Right now, I'm pretty much only riding on flat land and so I 
> don't really need to shift at all, and hardly do, which is nice. When I 
> realized this was going on, it reminded me of how pleasant of a surprise it 
> was when I realized that I had been subconsciously appreciating the Zen of 
> a singlespeed.
>
> Really happy with the setup and the one thing I think I might do is try to 
> try to see at what point dropping the stem lower becomes too low for me.
>
> Chester
> SF Bay Area
>
> [image: 20230805_140612.jpg]
> [image: 20230804_201825.jpg][image: 20230804_201844.jpg]
>
> On Tuesday, June 6, 2023 at 4:37:47 PM UTC-7 Chester wrote:
>
>> Recently bought Ed C's Roadini and have been riding it as much as I can. 
>> I asked him a few geo questions and he warned me that the stem (5cm) would 
>> probably be short for me and he's right in that I find riding the tops of 
>> the Nitto Noodles a little cramped.
>>
>> As I think about changing stem and/or bars, I end up in a chain reaction 
>> of additional changes that I think are basically about me wanting to make 
>> this Roadini more "gravel"-ish than roadish. On one hand, I have been 
>> intending to build out a Homer when they come in later this summer, but on 
>> the other hand, I just bought this Roadini, just bought a Clem L for my 
>> wife (that I ride more than she does), and just stumbled on and bought a 
>> Bridgestone RB-1 at the end of last year. So I feel like I should not buy 
>> more bikes to "save money"...and blow it all on new parts.
>>
>> Anyway, so this is where the somewhat cramped cockpit of what was Ed's 
>> Roadini takes me. Typing this out to get my thoughts down for myself to 
>> better sort them out, and also because I do have some questions below, and 
>> if anyone is kind enough to offer thoughts on what I'm thinking, I'd 
>> appreciate it.
>>
>> *Handlebars: Mustache*
>>
>> I could swap in a longer stem for a better fit but the Noodles are 46cm 
>> and are narrower than what I'd want. And I almost never ride in the drops 
>> or hooks of drop bars anyway. So thinking that a Mustache would be pretty 
>> perfect. What I'm used to on road type geometry and drop bars is a drop bar 
>> top that is about 4-6cm more forward. So I think the forward curves of the 
>> Nitto Mustache would be between what I'm used to as drop bar tops and hoods 
>> positions. 
>>
>> I looked a lot at other bars and there are some dirt drop sort of bars 
>> I'd like to try, but they're not 26/25.4 clamp size. 
>>
>> *Brake Levers: Non-Aero?*
>>
>> Ed put on aero Shimano levers and these will work fine. I've ridden a 
>> couple bikes with mustache bars with aero brake levers and it's what I'm 
>> used to but I'm thinking non-aero levers will make for less compromised 
>> brake cable routing. But I'm also wondering/worried that this "better" 
>> cable routing will conflict with using a handlebar bag. I suppose a lot 
>> depends on exactly where along the front curves the levers are mounted.
>>
>> *Shifting: Downtube or Bar-Con or Thumbies?*
>>
>> Current setup is Silver1 levers on the downtube. It's fine and I've come 
>> to re-acquire appreciation for the zen of shifting less, which came back 
>> quickly, since I've ridden singlespeed or fixed rigs as townies a lot. But 
>> I feel like bar-cons are still a nice compromise in being more conveniently 
>> placed while still not totally optimally placed. And I was thinking about 
>> thumbies instead, since bar-cons are a bit of a pain when trying to 
>> trackstand at lights, and thumbies might be really nice to have in natural 
>> spot when riding with hands on ends of the mustache bars.
>>
>> And if I'm going to re-do brake cabling I'll probably switch the housing 
>> to do a different accent color and if I do that then I might as well do 
>> shifting cables the same too. Or, I might as well do this while also trying 
>> out a different shift lever position. I've never ridden with bar-cons and 
>> the last time I used thumbies, it was with above-bar thumbies on a 
>> Bridgestone MB-5, almost 30 years ago.
>>
>> I'm think I'm thinking that converting the Silver1's to thumbies mounted 
>> where they'd be mounted for primary grip position on a townie/fully swept 
>> back bar makes the most sense, even though the orthodox thing to do is to 
>> go bar-con (or downtube). I have seen a picture of someone with a mustache 
>> setup with thumbies...*along the inboard of the forward curves* and that 
>> is sort of intriguing but looks weird and, somehow, ugly. I think bar-con 
>> would look nicer than thumbies inside standard end grip position, and 
>> downtube looks even better, but I can picture it being nice to have rear 
>> shifting accessible from a grip position, such as when starting off from a 
>> dead stop at red lights.
>>
>> *Tires: Wider than 32-35mm? Tubeless?*
>> *Brake Calipers: Centerpull or Longer Reach?*
>>
>> Feels like if I'm going to switch handlebars and no matter what will 
>> re-do brake cabling, then it will also be the time to consider changing the 
>> brake calipers for more tire clearance. It has mid-reach Shimano BR-R451 
>> which its specs say accommodate up to 32mm tires and Ed thinks might take 
>> up to 35mm. I wouldn't even swap out the 32mm Herse Stampede Passes on the 
>> bike, but am considering swapping tires and calipers if I can go from 32mm 
>> to 40mm or even 38mm.
>>
>> I don't even know *how much tire clearance the Roadini has*. I did some 
>> searching and it seems last year's Roadini had clearance increased to 42mm? 
>> Ed's was I think the 2017 and I haven't found any statement on the frame's 
>> tire clearance.
>>
>> I first thought about the Dia-Compe GC610 calipers for clearance and for 
>> looks but I don't know if I want to fiddle with centerpull cabling. I've 
>> never ridden with long-reach sidepulls and so I don't know *how much I 
>> should be concerned about long-reach stopping power*.
>>
>> But along with wanting to go wider than 32mm I also have been thinking 
>> about going tubeless since this has Velocity A23 wheels and they're 
>> tubeless compatible. In my case, going tubeless would be for reducing flats 
>> due to road debris and not to run much lower pressures off-road.
>>
>> Anyway, if I go tubeless I feel like I might as well try wider tires too 
>> and, if so, then need to change brake calipers.
>>
>> *What This Roadini'd Be For / Other Bikes*
>>
>> I guess I should've started with this. I would be riding this Roadini 
>> overwhelmingly on pavement, with some gravelish and non-technical dirt here 
>> and there. Most frequently commuting, but hopefully longer and longer paved 
>> rides as I work that back into my diet, after having all but given up road 
>> riding since I had kids. I definitely don't need wider than 32mm but want 
>> to see how wide I can go on roadish geometry while still keeping spirited 
>> roadish feel. 
>>
>> And to get some more separation between the Roadini and my RB-1, which 
>> I'm keeping stock other than the tires and saddle. Making the Roadini more 
>> gravelish or all-roadish will make me feel better about keeping both of 
>> these bikes. It also helps me resist buying a Homer at least this year. 
>> While also giving me more experience with stuff that would help me dial in 
>> the build spec for a future Homer.
>>
>> I live in the South Bay area of the San Francisco Bay Area and there 
>> isn't a ton of what I think of as ideal country bike or hillibike riding. 
>> Off-road riding tends to feature a fair amount to a ton of climbing. I 
>> don't have stuff within short distance of my front door and I also have a 
>> modern hardtail that I think is probably more fun to ride most of the dirt 
>> near where I live.
>>
>> Maybe I find that I can build the Roadini to be pretty much exactly what 
>> I want to have in between old-school road race geo, and XC MTB.
>>
>

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