I agree with others, that it'll look better when threaded through a mounted derailleur. Definitely do NOT remove another link until you try that though. Even so, I have definitely had cases where I still felt like there was too much slack, and ended up replacing the B-screw with a longer one. In fact, I was doing that so often that I just bought some in bulk. (I think my issue is that Im usually trying to maximize gear range, rather than achieve tiny, incremental steps for maintaining cadence.) In a pinch, you can also turn the B-screw around and thread it from the opposite side. In that case, UN-screwing it increases the tension.
On Saturday, January 20, 2024 at 3:40:17 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote: > Generally and to all: I've very often decided to use a rd that is far out > of spec in chain takeup for a given chainring + cassette combination, for > all sorts of reasons. Instances: well, first, the DA 7401 (I think it's the > ...01) on my present Matthews for an admittedly close ratio 13-25 10-sp > cassette but OTOH paired with a 44/28 wide range "1x + granny." But back in > the day a 8 sp Ultegra rd with a 48/38/26 crank and a 14-32 7 sp cassette, > just because. With the long hanger on the Spec SJ Team frame it worked well > enough: I could shift all 7 in the 36; but -- and this is point -- there > was severe chain sag in the grannies and all except the 3 or so biggest > cogs (perhaps 5 biggest with the Matthews). But then you don't use the > granny with the small cogs. > -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/f509323e-87fa-486d-911a-529eae3ab630n%40googlegroups.com.
