I generally look up to Garth's advice, but I'll contradict him here: the
point is not level or sloping top tube but saddle to bar relationship. My
"ideal" level tt/fist of sp size is 60X56 c-c but the most perfectest fit
of all is on that too-much described '99 Riv custom that has a 57 c-c st,
upsloping 57 cm tt with modestly extended ht, since this lets me get the
saddle in the right place and then wrt to the saddle, get the bar in the
right place. I've gotten near-perfect drop bar setups on miniscule 46 cm
frames with massive 58+ cm tts (mtb frames) tho' 46 and 58 are hardly ideal.

Second, yes, less air resistance is a great benefit of a lower and drop
bar, but there is another that IME is equally great, that you bring into
play additional muscles when you bend over. I find this every time I "slip"
into the hooks when turning into a headwind or slide way back on the saddle
when reaching an incline.



On Sat, Apr 20, 2024 at 2:38 PM Garth <garth...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Hooray for you Leah ! :-)
>
> I think a level top tube would suit you better in the long run as given a
> good fit, you'll be able to have a good starting point for bar height. Not
> too high, not too low. You're obliviously fit and flexible, so for road
> riding use that to your advantage, so to speak. Less air resistance, which
> is what you're running into, literally. From experience,  sloping TT's are
> fine if you want to the bars quite high, but if you want them at a more
> saddle level or below you may not be able to go low enough. It depends on
> the frame of course.
>
> A Homer before the TT's were sloped would also work as road bike in
> addition to the Roadeo. They were technically 1.5 degrees, not enough to
> care about given a proper fit.  Also Ramboullett frames would work.
>
> You have such a good level of fitness and sensibilities that you'll be
> fine, it'll work out as it comes.
>

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