The way I understand it, brake squeal happens when the pads grab the rim, 
reach max coef of friction (after they slip forward microscopically in the 
pad holder or due to brake arm play) then slip/spring back. The rapid, tiny 
movements back and forth cause the noise. 

I’m wondering if holder less pads would work better in this regard. 

https://a.co/d/0fmE8IZP
On Saturday, June 29, 2024 at 1:37:16 PM UTC-6 John Rinker wrote:

> Thanks for your input Hoch. The pads are several months on the bike, and 
> everything is solid as can be in the brake arms. The pads are very slightly 
> loose in the pad holders though.
>
> Hey Brian, Thanks for your explanation. I've just put a nickle's worth of 
> space in the pads and still quite a squeal. Perhaps I'll take Josh C's 
> suggestion and put a $1.25 worth of space between pad and rim! ;)
>
> Cheers, John
>
> On Saturday, June 29, 2024 at 9:54:20 AM UTC-7 Josh C wrote:
>
>> A proper toe-in setup often solves this problem. Sometimes a more 
>> aggressive angle than you might be used to for the first couple rides may 
>> help. 
>>
>> On Saturday, June 29, 2024 at 9:45:09 AM UTC-4 Brian Turner wrote:
>>
>>> John, I probably should've used different wording. Dilligent instead of 
>>> "meticulous" is probably more appropriate. Meaning, I check to make sure my 
>>> brake pads are toed in quite often, even if they are silent. Sometimes they 
>>> won't squeal, but you can feel a slight chatter or vibration feel in the 
>>> brakes on a long descent, and I find it good to check the toe-in when that 
>>> happens. My method is the standard use of a coin between the rear end of 
>>> the pads and the braking surface to set the toe-in. However, I find with 
>>> quality pads like Kool Stop salmons, especially when paired with strong 
>>> brakes like Pauls, I give the pads a bit more toe-in angle, so I use a 
>>> nickels instead of say, a dime. Another thing I like to use regularly with 
>>> machined sidewalls is a Mavic rim cleaning stone.
>>>
>>> Brian
>>> Lexington KY
>>>
>>

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